New FIP Treatment

 

Frankie, enjoying our front porch in better days

Molnupiravir Shows Promise in Treating FIP Cats

Feline Infectious Peritonitis -- more commonly known as FIP. It's the diagnosis no cat parent ever wants to receive. Caused by a relatively benign feline coronavirus as ubiquitous as the common cold in humans, in some cats it morphs into a three-stage spiral toward death -- like syphilis in humans. It most commonly claims cats under two years old, but can also affect older cats in rare cases. 

FIP can manifest in several ways: 

• effusive - the "wet" form that produces three stages: upper respiratory, gastrointestinal, and the chest or abdominal cavity filling with fluid
• non-effusive - the "dry" form that causes granuloma-type tumors on the major organs
• neurological - a dry form of the disease, made worse due to the blood-brain barrier being ineffective at preventing the virus from infiltrating the cerebrospinal fluid, forming lesions in the central nervous system (CNS, brain and spine)
• ocular - another dry form of FIP causing eye lesions that are often the first noticeable symptom, due to the virus infecting the aqueous humor of the eyes; may also be accompanied by brain lesions

My FIP Experience

Our own beloved Frankie, pictured above, was several years old when he started showing symptoms of what appeared to be an upper respiratory infection that wouldn't go away. Several months later, he developed what our vet diagnosed as pancreatitis, and we had to put him on a special diet for it. Less than a year after that, I looked down at him from above and he looked like a cartoon bodybuilder: slim in the hips but HUGE in the chest area. He was also short of breath and panting for air. I rushed him to the emergency vet, where they drained a lot of fluid from his chest that they said was "teeming with bacteria." He was in the hospital for a week, but died there on a Sunday morning. 

In just under two years after the first stage, Frankie was gone. But that was in 2009, before there was any hope of a different outcome. We could only guess based on his symptoms that FIP was what claimed him, since there was not even an accurate test for FIP then; most kittens are exposed to the coronavirus when very young and have no lasting effects, meaning that even asymptomatic cats will test positive for its antibodies. Not to mention that its first two stages presented as something else. Many cats who actually have FIP have been incorrectly diagnosed with, and treated for, systemic toxoplasmosis or deep fungal infections. There was simply no way to know. Testing for FIP is still a hit-or-miss process; there is no real blood or tissue test that will identify it as the culprit.

The First Hope: GS Treatment

Thankfully, due to a protease-inhibiting drug known as GS-441524, FIP is no longer an automatic death sentence for cats. It's finally treatable! Treatment is lengthy -- up to twelve weeks, followed by a twelve-week observation period -- and pricey, in the thousands of dollars. Dosages and length of treatment vary depending on the cat's age and how far the disease has progressed.

Both veterinarians and cat parents at home are successfully using GS to treat FIP cats. It's available for injection and also in pill form. The injections are recommended for cats who have begun to experience the second-stage gastrointestinal symptoms. Mutian makes the most common brand of the drug. 

Some study participants supplemented the GS with steroids or vitamins B1 or B12, while others also gave gabapentin along with it. More than a quarter of study participants also supplemented the treatment with subcutaneous fluids. The only side effects appeared to be pain and wounds or lesions at the injection site. The treatment did not prove as effective against the ocular or neurological forms of FIP due to the blood-brain barrier preventing it from getting to the location of the problem, but it was more effective against the wet form.

So, what if GS treatment doesn't work for your cat? Over 96% of the 393 cats in the leading study on GS survived, but only 54% of them were considered to be cured of the disease. Close to 13% of them suffered a relapse during the observation period included in the study. What if your kitty goes into remission for a while, then starts experiencing FIP symptoms again? Can the GS series of treatments be used again? Is that advised?

A New Hope: Molnupiravir

In stepped the Every Cat Health Foundation with a grant to study another approach to treating FIP. The researchers announced their results recently, showing that the drug Molnupiravir is proving effective not only for recurring cases of FIP, but as an initial treatment for the disease. It can be given in lieu of additional GS treatment, as well, for cats who are not responding to the GS series of treatments within a few weeks. 

Length of treatment with Molnupiravir was similar to that for GS. Of the 26 cats studied, one relapsed did not survive. Another died from a prolonged seizure after treatment was completed. 92% showed improvement after only three weeks of treatment, over 84% in two weeks, and over 46% within one week. All but one continued treatment for the full term, until they reached the point of complete remission. One cat actually reached remission sooner.

Like the GS treatment, Molnupiravir is available in both injectable and pill forms. Aura makes two formulations of it, and it's reportedly more financially accessible than GS, although it will still set you back more than a few thousand dollars. It does have some occasionally reported side effects, so make sure to ask your veterinarian if it is safe for your cat and which of the two drugs may be the better approach. And keep in mind that the sample size for this study was relatively small, a tenth of the number of cats included in the GS study. Another field study of Molnupiravir included 286 cats, a comparable number to those in the main GS study, and delivered similar results, percentage-wise.

Hope, however, is now a reality. As Molnupiravir, or combined GS-Molnupiravir treatments for FIP become more widely known and used, we will learn more about its effectiveness. Interestingly enough, Molnupiravir is also being used to treat some humans with COVID-19, and GS-441524 is a component of the drug Remdesivir that's used to treat COVID-19. Turns out, we have more in common with our cats than we thought.

Sources: "New Study -- Molnupiravir as new therapeutic option for relapsed FIP cats" published November 7, 2022 on Every Cat Foundation blog; Sarah Jones, Wendy Novicoff, Julie Nadeau, and Samantha Evans, "Unlicensed GS-441524-Like Antiviral Therapy Can Be Effective for Home Treatment of Feline Infectious Peritonitis" published July 30, 2021; Meagan Roy, Nicole Jacque, Wendy Novicoff, Emily Li, Rosa Negash, and Samantha J. M. Evans, "Unlicensed Molnupiravir is an Effective Rescue Treatment Following Failure of Unlicensed GS-441524-like Therapy for Cats with Suspected Feline Infectious Peritonitis" published October 20, 2022; Niels C. Pederson, DVM, PhD of UC Davis, "Neurological and ocular FIP" published April 29, 2019; Niels C. Pederson, DVM, PhD of UC Davis, "Alternative treatments for cats with FIP and natural or acquired resistance to GS-441524" published November 3, 2021; Khan Sharun, Ruchi Tiwari, and Kuldeep Dhama, "Protease inhibitor GC376 for COVID-19: Lessons learned from feline infectious peritonitis" published December 28, 2020

Cat-Safe Flowers For Your Garden

 

Photo: Pixabay

Cat-Safe Flowers

Today is St. Gertrude's Day, the patron saint of cats (although she's always eclipsed by that man). In her honor, why not give or plant some flowers that are safe for your cat to nibble?

Whether you're assembling a spring bouquet or planting your garden, you want to make sure that the flowers and plants you choose won't harm your cats. That's where the ASPCA's list of plants that are toxic and non-toxic to cats comes in handy. Access the full list at that link, but here are some selected flowers that will get you started. USDA hardiness zones are included, where available. (Zone recommendations vary widely between sources, so consult a local garden shop or master gardener if you're uncertain about the suitability of a plant for your own garden.)

If you run a garden shop, you can consult the ASPCA's list to make your customers aware of which plants are safe around their feline companions. Florists? These are flowers that are safe to include in your arrangements if your customer will be taking a bouquet to a friend or loved one who has a cat. There's an extra service you can offer to your customers!

The popular Gerber Daisy, Gerbera jamesonii, is also known as the Barberton Daisy, Veldt Daisy, African Daisy, or Transvaal Daisy. It's actually a perennial herb that comes in many colors and forms, courtesy of its many hybrids. They will grow year-round in zones 8-11, and in any climate during spring and summer.

The Camellia (Camellia japonica), also known as the Peony Camellia or Japanese Camellia, is also safe around cats. There are more than 2,000 cultivars of this plant, and its flowers can be various shades of pink, white, or speckled. These are winter-hardy in zones 7-10, while some cultivars of camellia will also survive in zone 8.

Coral Bells, Heuchera sanguinea, is native to Mexico and the American Southwest. Its flowers are deep pink to red, depending on the cultivar, and have a sweet fragrance. Also depending on cultivar, it can grow from 8 to 18 inches tall. This plant is hardy outdoors in zones 4-8 and attracts both bees and hummingbirds.

Cape Primrose, one of the Streptocarpus genus, has many cultivars yielding a wide range of colors: pink, white, violet, lavender, and variegated like the one shown here. There are even societies and online forums of people devoted to the various cultivars of these flowers. Hardy in zones 10-11. If grown indoors, place them in a sunny window to enjoy flowers for up to 10 months of the year.

Coreopsis, also known as Tickseed, is in the Compositae family. There are many varieties of it, producing either yellow or yellow-and-red flowers like those shown here. In addition to growing wild in North and South America, it is cultivated for gardens, is known to attract butterflies, and is a perennial plant in hardiness zones 4-9. 

The China Aster, Callistephus chinensis, has been cultivated into many color options including red, pink, blue, purple, and white. This one shown is its natural, wild color. An annual, it can be grown in zones 2-11.

This type of impatiens is known as Buzzy or Busy Lizzie or Patient Lucy, and is in the Balsaminaceae family. There are more than 1,000 species of impatiens that come in various colors. They have medicinal properties and are even an ingredient in the Bach Rescue Remedy tincture. Hardy in zones 10-11, where it is a perennial.

Blue Marguerite, also known as Felicia or Blue Daisy, has the botanical name of Felicia amelloidis. It's a perennial evergreen plant native to South Africa, but has been cultivated in Europe since the mid-1700s. Cold hardy in zones 8-11, it is easy to care for and is a perennial in zones 10-11, growing up to 2 feet tall and flowering throughout the summer and fall seasons.

Sanvitalia, better known as Creeping Zinnia, is native to North and Central America, so it will grow well in zones 2-10. There are many species of it that grow in different specific areas; zones for each species may differ. They are a good ground cover and will bloom through summer into early fall.

The striking and popular Snapdragon, Antirrhinum majus, is hardy in both hot and cold temperatures. Native to the Mediterranean region, it can be an annual, biennial, or perennial, flowering from spring to fall. Grow it from seeds or cuttings. This popular plant is also known as Lion's Mouth, Toad's Mouth, Rabbit's Mouth, Calf Snout, Bonny Rabbits, and Lion's Snap. It can grow up to 2 or 3 feet tall as a perennial in zones 7-10, or as an annual in other temperate regions, but it will not withstand frost.

Crossandra is a genus of flowering perennials with 54 individual species that flower in colors such as salmon, red, yellow, or pink. Native to Africa, Madagascar, Arabia, and India, they do well in zones 9-11 and grow up to 3 feet tall. Flowering occurs from late spring through early fall.

Here's a different snapdragon, the Sierra Snapdragon, Antirrhinum Multiflorum, also known as a Withered Snapdragon. It is an annual or perennial herb native to the California mountains, where it grows in the wild, often after fires. Its flowers come in pink, red, or purple. Recommended as a perennial in zones 8a-11.

Bachelor's Button, also known as Cornflower or Bluebottle, has the botanical name of Centaurea cyanus. These European wildflowers have been cultivated to produce flowers in white, pink, purple, and lavender. Hardy in zones 2-11, they bloom from May through July and grow to around 3 feet tall.

This delicate beauty is known as Willow Herb, Fireweed, or Blooming Sally with the botanical name Epilobium angustifolium. If planting it in your garden, it's friendly not only to cats, but enjoyed by pollinators and with wildlife. Its leaves can be dried and made into a caffeine-free tea and are also prized for their medicinal qualities. Herbaceous perennial is hardy in zones 2-8.

How about a lovely African Violet? This herbaceous perennial is also known as a Cape Marigold. They're native to cloud forests that are increasingly being cleared, so some varieties are now considered threatened. There are ten separate species of these plants, all in the Gesneriaceae family. They are hardy outdoors in zones 11-12, but are more often grown in pots as a house plant.

Celosia Plumosa, better known as Cockscomb, is native to India and Nepal, but has also been cultivated for the garden and those cultivars bloom in red, yellow, orange, pink, or white. Its relative, Celosia Spicata or Flamingo Feather, is another cat-safe option in a lovely pink. They are low-maintenance plants that can be grown as perennials in zones 10-12 and are placed in beds as annuals in colder zones.

Another type of violet, this one is known as the Persian Violet. Its botanical name is Exacum affine. Native to the humid tropics and subtropics, its pale purple flowers appear in spring and summer with bright yellow centers and a lovely fragrance. Use it in beds or as a ground cover in zones 10-12. It will grow 10-12 inches tall as an annual, or up to 2 feet tall as a houseplant. 

A popular addition to many bouquets is Baby's Breath or Maiden's Breath. This more open form of it is Gypsophila elegans, often included in mixtures of wildflower seeds. An annual, it will grow in zones 3-10, but the plants only live for 5-6 weeks. If you plant seeds for it every few weeks, you'll have continuous blooms in your garden.

If you're worried about using Baby's Breath, try Alyssum instead. Alyssum comes in over 100 varieties in yellow, white, pink, or purple and is in the Brassicaceae family. These prefer cooler temperatures and are hardy in zones 5-9 as a ground cover. Not terribly heat-tolerant, however. They grow up to around 6 inches tall, but spread around 9 inches.

Gloxinia perennis, also known as Canterbury Bell, has purple or lavender flowers that smell of mint...but they don't bloom until mid-summer. Plant this perennial in your garden in spring, and look for these lovelies in July. Native to Central and South America, it does best in zones 9-10. Plants get around 3 feet tall.

Also in the African violet family is Cyrtudeira (Episcia reptans), which is native to Central and South America. Other names for it include Flame African Violet, Frosty, Flame, Lady Lou, Red African Violet, or Acajou. This perennial has stunning leaves and tiny red flowers. Usually kept as a houseplant, these will survive outdoors in zones 10-11. They'll grow to about 8 inches tall and bloom in both spring and summer.

Because there are so many flowering plants on the ASPCA's list, this subject matter will be continued in later posts. I don't want to overwhelm you with too much information at once! These first 21 are a lovely assortment of colors, types, heights and textures of flowers.

Once all these posts are done, you may just be seeing them all compiled into a book about this. Let me know in the comments below if such a book would be of interest to you!

Sources include the ASPCA site linked to above as well as the websites for Wikipedia, Backyard Gardener, Plant Lust, Dave's Garden, Missouri Botanical Garden, Gardenia.net, Gardener's HQ, Gardening Knowhow, and Candide.

Images above are from the ASPCA site of toxic and non-toxic plants.

Easter Without Easter Lilies? Far Safer for Cats!

 

Photo by Pixabay: https://www.pexels.com/photo/adorable-animal-cat-cat-s-eyes-236603/

Cat-Friendly Lilies? Yes, There Are!

Lilies are popular at this time of year as Easter approaches. But did you know that all parts of the Easter lily plant are highly toxic to cats? Indeed, even if your cat is not a nibbler of plants, a mere few grains of pollen from an Easter lily is enough to shut down kitty's kidneys. If that pollen gets on your cat's fur and kitty ingests it when grooming, you're going to have a very expensive vet bill at minimum and could even lose your feline friend!

To avoid a calamity, let's examine some alternative types of lilies to include in your Easter bouquet or to give as plants for Easter, courtesy of the ASPCA's list of plants that are toxic and non-toxic to cats. These options will keep you on your friend's good side by not killing their kitty when you take them a plant as an Easter gift. 

If you're a florist, this list will help you offer a service to your customers by offering cat-safe lilies. Planting a garden? These plants are among those that are safe for you to include if your cats will be enjoying the garden with you. 

Cat-Safe Lilies (and Lily-like Plants)

These lilies will brighten your Easter or your garden, while not endangering your cats:

Pretty good comparison for a starter, huh? This is the Queen's Cup, also known as the Bride's Bonnet or Bead Lily, Clintonia uniflora, which is safe around cats because it's not a true lily. It's a North American native that can be found from Alaska down to central California. Some Native American tribes use it medicinally or as a dye. A tiny thing, it only grows 6-10 inches tall and flowers from late May into July. (Alas, not at Easter time.)

Here's another very appropriate lily for cat lovers that's safe for cats to be around: it's the Leopard Lily (Lachenalia lilacina)! Native to Namibia and South Africa, this perennial plant that grows to around 8 inches in height produces drooping, tubular, spotted orange flowers from late winter into spring, then goes dormant for the summer.

Another spectacular option is the Scarborough Lily (Cyrtanthus elatus or Vallota speciosa). This South African native has several cultivars that produce red, orange, or yellow blooms from late summer into early fall. Some of the rarer ones may have pink or white flowers. They do well outdoors in zones 8-11 and grow up to 3 feet tall, but are also cultivated as a house plant.

Another cat-safe plant that's called a lily but isn't really one is the Canna Lily, Canna generalis. The 10 species of this tropical plant in the Cannaceae family come in colors ranging from red to yellow, orange, pink, and peach. Their foliage may also be quite spectacular. These plants also have many uses, from ornamentals to foods, dyes, paper fiber, as a substitute for jute, and are even used to make alcohol. It will grow well in zones 7-10 and can grow up to 3 to 5 feet tall.

 

The Saint Bernard's Lily or Spider Plant, Chlorophytum bichetti, produces lily-like leaves. It is native to Africa, Asia, and Australia. Outdoors, it will do well in zones 9-11, but many people use it in terrariums.

The Easter Lily Cactus, Echinopsis multiplex, produces pale pink lily-like flowers from late spring through summer (sorry, not at Easter time). It's also an actual lily, but isn't that bloom spectacular? Starting out around 6 inches, these cacti can grow up to 3 feet tall and do well in zones 8b-11b.

How about an Easter Daisy (Townsendia sericea)? These little cat-safe perennial herbal wildflowers are native to the central and western parts of North America. The plants only grow to around 7 inches tall, and the flowers that bloom from March-May are stemless, so you can't use them as cut flowers unless floating them in a shallow dish.

Who doesn't love an orchid, especially when it's safe around your kitties? The Easter Orchid (Cattleya mossiae) is known as one of the more fragrant orchids. Native to Central and South America, it is most often grown indoors, but can grow outside in zones 10-12. The plant grows 1-2 feet tall, and its spectacular blooms that appear in mid-spring can be up to 7 inches long.

Here's another cat-safe lily-like orchid: the Lily of the Valley Orchid (Odontoglossum pulchellum). Because these are native to higher elevations in Mexico and Central America, they actually like the temperature to be a little cool and flower from winter into spring. 

The Mariposa Lily (Calochortus gunnisonii), also known as the Gunnison's Mariposa Lily or Sego Lily, is in the lily family, but is not toxic to cats. A native wildflower found at high elevations (over 6,500 feet) in the western United States, the plant grows to almost 2 feet tall and flowers from June to August. It has been cultivated and will grow outdoors in zones 3-7.

This showy beauty is a Peruvian Lily (Alstroemeria), also known as a Lily of the Incas or Princess Lily. It's a perennial that grows well in zones 7-10, can reach 2 to 3 feet in height and blooms from late spring to early fall. Over 100 hybrids and cultivars of this plant produce blooms in apricot, orange, pink, red, white, and yellow with various types of markings on them. They do well as cut flowers and  with proper watering can last for up to two weeks before wilting.

The Prairie Lily (Zephyranthes drummondii) is also called the Giant Rain Lily, Evening Rain Lily, or Hill Country Rain Lily. It grows well in zones 7-9, reaching about 1 foot in height. It only blooms for a short time, from late April through early May.

Another cat-safe "lily that's not a lily" is the Red Palm Lily (Cordyline rubra). An Australian native, it produces these lovely red-and-green leaves. Lilac-colored blooms appear in summer, which turn into red berries once pollinated. While not widely cultivated, it is hardy in zones 10 and above, and can grow up to 13 feet tall. They are most often sold as houseplants.

What could be more perfect for Easter than the Resurrection Lily (Kaempferia)? A relative of ginger, this genus of cat-safe plants is also sometimes called Peacock Ginger and has over 100 specific types, all native to southeast Asia. It does well outdoors in zones 8 and above and produces leaves that grow around 18 inches tall. Its delicate flowers are quite fragrant. The Resurrection Lily blooms from late May through June. Too late for Easter, but it could make a lovely gift as a plant, with its blooms as a nice surprise later in the spring.

Speaking of ginger, White Ginger (Hedychium choronarium), also known as Ginger Lily, Butterfly Ginger, Cinnamon Jasmine, or Garland Flower, produces a fragrant, lily-like flower from late summer into early fall. The plant can grow from 3-6 feet tall, and is native to India, the Himalayas, China, Taiwan, and southeast Asia...but it is the national flower of Cuba! It grows well in zones 8-10, but if heavily mulched in winter, it may also survive in zone 7.

What? Purple lilies? Yes, when they're Turf Lilies (Liriope muscari), also known as Lilyturf or Monkey Grass. This plant is native to China, Japan, and Korea, where it grows in shady forests. It is not recommended for North America, as it is considered to be an invasive plant, but it is cultivated for gardens in zones 5-10. The leaves grow 1-1.5 feet tall, with flower spike of 6-8 inches tall emerging in late summer into fall.  

If you go on outdoor adventures with your cat (What? Some people do.), you may encounter the Sand Lily (Leucocrinum montanum). Also known as the Mountain Lily or Common Star Lily, this is a wildflower native to the western United States. A low-growing perennial, it grows on the dry prairies, scrub flats, grasslands, sagebrush deserts, and mountain meadows. Safe for cats to nibble, it's also a favorite snack of rabbits and deer. It's a tiny plant, only growing to about 6 inches tall. Blooms appear from April through June, after which the plant wilts back to the ground.

The Speckled Wood Lily (Clintonia umbellulata), also known as White Clintonia, is native to the eastern United States, where it grows wild in hardwood forests with a little elevation. It does well outdoors in zones 4-8, growing about a foot tall with flower stalks extending upward about another 6-10 inches above the leaves. The flowers are white and speckled or edged in pink and attract pollinators. They appear from May-June, followed by clusters of bright blue berries from August-October. 

The Torch Lily (Kniphofia) is also known as the Red-Hot Poker, Tritoma, or Poker Plant. As you can see above, its showy bicolor blooms in red, orange, and yellow attract hummingbirds. This African native comes in 73 species, several of which have been cultivated for gardens. They do well in zones 5-9, growing up to two feet tall with blooms on stalks that grow up to three feet long. Flowers appear throughout the summer, from June-August.

The link in the introductory text will take you to the ASPCA's full list of plants that are toxic and non-toxic to cats. There are many more than the lilies shown here, including many other flowers, trees, shrubs, and houseplants...even food crops. It's not an exhaustive list of all possible plants, but will at least give you some handy guidelines on cat-safe plants as a starting point. With just a few minutes of research, you can spare your kitty from sickness or death by using feline-friendly lilies -- or lily-like flowers and plants -- this Easter.

Images in this post are from the ASPCA's site linked to above. Initial information on plants to include also came from that site. Additional sources consulted included the websites for Wikipedia, the National Parks Board, Dave's Garden, Urban Organic Yield, The Old Farmer's Almanac, the USDA Forest Service, American Meadows, World of Succulents, North Carolina State Agricultural Extension Office, Plantly, Hortipedia, The American Orchid Society, Garden Chronicle, Orchidweb, Pro Flowers, Gardenia, Wildflower.org, Plant Care Today, Southeast Garden, Budburst, Garden Center Marketing, Garden Tags, Maryland Biodiversity Project, Plants For a Future, Portland Nursery, Missouri Botanical Garden, and HGTV.

 How Old is My Cat?

We've all heard the old adage that a year in human-years is worth seven years in a dog's life. That's not entirely accurate, but is a good rule of thumb. But what about cats?

As it turns out, the figures are not quite the same for our feline companions. Various sources contain different absolutes for this, but if one human year is a certain multiple in cat-years, it would stand to reason that each year should be a range of cat ages. So a cat who is 5 years and 0 months old would be younger than a cat who's 5 years and 11 months old. Not to mention that a cat who is living rough outdoors has a lower life expectancy, and thus would age faster, than its indoor cousins.

In aggregating all the various sources for domestic cats' ages, I've come up with a table that provides a nice range of feline ages for each year in a human's life, and also provides a separate range for outdoor cats. Because cats mature quickly in kittenhood, the first year is broken down further into months. 

While cats are living longer, thanks to more being kept indoors, better food, and more advanced veterinary care, none of the sources I've found provide anything above 25 human years. So this table stops with that, even though there are some cats who live beyond 25 human years. I've also provided guidelines for what's considered the various stages of a cat's life, and what health issues to watch for in those stages.

Age Chart for Cats

Sources

For more complete information on the health conditions mentions in the chart, consult the source material directly:

Pet MD, "6 Kitten Health Issues to Watch For"; The Spruce Pets, "Common Disorders and Diseases in Kittens"; Pet MD, "The 5 Most Common Kitten Illnesses"; Fetch by Web MD, "6 Most Common Cat Health Problems"; Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, "Feline Dental Diseases"; Petfinder, "Top 5 Serious Cat Illnesses Only Your Vet Can Diagnose"; Vetstreet, "Senior Cats: What to Expect at 13-15 Years"; Vetbabble, "Liver Disease in Cats. Common Causes, Symptoms and What to Expect"; PetMD, "Seven Most Common Illnesses in Senior Cats"; Vetstreet: "Senior Cats: What to Expect at 10-12 Years"; Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, "Gingivostomatitis"; PetMD, "Cancer in Cats: Symptoms, Types and Treatment"

How to Trim A Cat's Claws

 

Everything You Need to Know About Cat Claw Trimming

While we love our kitties, let's face it, they can be very destructive with their claws. But amputating their toes to "declaw" them is horribly inhumane: it can cause a lifetime of painful toes for them (imagine if your fingers were all amputated at the first joint below your fingernails; that's exactly what happens to a cat during declawing surgery). Declaw surgery can also lead to behavioral problems like aggression (when their first line of defense is taken away from them, some cats become more bitey) and litter-box avoidance (due to the pain in their feet when they try to dig there). 

If you know these things and still choose to surgically have your cat's toes amputated, it will create mistrust between you and your cat; cats are very aware of everything. Imagine if you knew that the person who was supposed to be looking out for your welfare had chosen to maim you for life, just to preserve their furniture. Would that give you a warm, fuzzy feeling about them? It doesn't for the cats, either. You're far better off learning to trim your cat's claws and helping them learn where it's appropriate to scratch and where it's not.

Why do Cats Scratch Things?

In nature, cats scratch on things for a few reasons. These make perfect sense to the cats. Scratching is one of their natural instincts. It's as natural for them as eating, using the potty, and sleeping.

The first reason cats scratch things is to help their claws shed the outer layer of growth so the new growth can come in. Think of it as a necessary good-grooming practice, like we push back the cuticles on our nails.

The second reason cats scratch things is to exercise their front legs. The resistance they encounter on the scratching surface causes their muscles to work, just like when we work out with a resistance band.

Thirdly, cats scratch on things to mark their territory. Their paws have little scent glands that emit pheromones. We can't usually smell those, but other cats can. In the wild, cats mark the boundaries of their territory with spraying urine, leaving "scat" (poop), and by scratching to leave their scent on trees. Other cats encounter those messages and know they are on the boundary of a rival cat's territory.

Our domesticated cats retain these natural instincts. They don't understand why they're scratching things, they just know that they need to. It calms them and gives them a feeling of satisfaction. This is why using a spray bottle to spray your cat with water when they scratch something doesn't do anything to deter the cat from scratching, it only harms the trust bond between you and your cat. A cat doesn't differentiate between your fancy sofa and a tree in the wild; both seem to present an attractive scratching surface that can be used to accomplish the above three goals.

If your cat is scratching your furniture, carpet, or other things, examine whether you've provided sufficient acceptable scratching surfaces near the place where the cat is scratching. Look at the type of scratchers you have, and buy those based on how your cat scratches: vertically or horizontally. There are all types of scratchers available, so find one that appeals to your cat more than the unacceptable surfaces. These days, you can also usually find some that will appeal to your aesthetic, as well. Enhance the scratchers with catnip, if needed, to increase their attractiveness. You may want to use some clear packing tape around the corners of your furniture, which tend to be the most attractive areas, to make them slick so the cat's nails won't grab onto them. That's less obvious than a lot of other solutions and will protect your furniture. If you see your cat going for the furniture, say "No," calmly, then pick up the cat and place him/her on the scratcher. Cats are intelligent, so doing this consistently will teach them that the scratchers are their go-to surfaces in your home.

Why Do I Need To Trim My Cat's Claws?

But back to claw trimming! Even with regular use of appropriate scratching surfaces, a cat's claws keep growing, curling under and becoming sharper over time. If left untrimmed, they will keep growing right down into the cat's toes and stab them in the toe every time they take a step. That wouldn't be very comfortable, would it?

Just like you need a periodic manicure or pedicure, so do your cats. I refer to those with mine as their "pedi-pedi" since we're really grooming four feet instead of hands and feet.

Once trimmed to a safer length, your cat's claws will be less likely to get caught in the carpet when they walk or in their toys and scratchers when they use those. When kneading on you or reaching out for you, they'll be less likely to scratch you. Their toes will feel better, as well.

Cats, however, don't realize all these benefits, and they don't especially like having their claws trimmed. It doesn't seem like a natural thing to them. And they don't typically like being restrained, like you need to do when trimming claws.

Tools Needed for Trimming a Cat's Claws

I've used various types of fancy claw trimmers for cats, including the battery-operated files that file them down. What works best for me is a regular nail clipper for humans. It's quick and uncomplicated. And when you're trimming a cat's claws, speed is important. I use the larger size because it's easier to handle when you're trying to hold a squirmy cat.

If you know it's about time for a claw trim, it helps to position the trimmer in place ahead of time. Since I typically trim claws on my bed, I place it on the bedside table.

Conditioning a Cat for Claw Trimming

Long before you start trimming your cat's claws, you'll want to prepare the cat for this activity. Hold your cat a lot from the time it's young, talking or singing softly to the cat at a time when you are both calm. What do you talk about? Pretty much anything. Tell the cat that they're beautiful or good, or explain things to them, or reminisce about times you have spent together. Cats love to hear you say their name and enjoy little songs you make up that include their name.

As you're holding your cat and talking/singing, do a mini-exam of the cat's body. Slowly feel the kitty over for any abnormalities or injuries. Look at their ears to make sure there are no signs of ear mites. Check their anal area for fleas. Look for ticks if the cat has been outside. Check the condition of their coat and their teeth. Hold each of the cat's paws briefly, and gently push out each claw from its toe to check how sharp it is. Flip the cat over onto its back and gently rub its chest, checking the abdomen for any abnormalities, fleas, bald spots, or injuries. All the while, keep up the chatter or singing to calm your cat.

All of this should not have to take a long time; just a minute or two per cat. If you have more than one cat, you won't likely get to them all at the same time. Just be patient and get to it when it happens.

Choosing the Correct Time for Claw Trimming

Our cats pick up on our emotions, so your state of mind is key to a successful claw-trimming session. Times to avoid your cuddle sessions or claw trimming: when you're stressed or feeling frantic, when your cat has the "zoomies" and wants to run around and play, and when there's a lot of activity around your house or anything is out of the ordinary. Both of you should be relaxed and comfortable. As you get more in tune with your cat's emotions, you'll recognize when is the right time.

Good times for claw trimming: before bedtime when you're both relaxed, first thing in the morning, or during afternoon nap time can all be excellent times for it. If you trim the claws just before a meal, your cats may be more amenable to being handled and will be getting treat just afterward, so that's also a good time. But every family is different and every cat is different. What works for one may not work for another. Only you and your cat know when the time is right.

My Technique of Trimming Cat Claws

When one of my cats needs a claw trim, I choose a time when we're both calm and relaxed, just as with the cuddle sessions. Since I've already placed the claw trimmer handy, I don't need to go and get that. It's merely a matter of positioning the cat properly so I can control him and get the job done quickly.

For me, the place that works best is on my bed. That way, I can sit with my back to the headboard and hold the cat next to my body underneath my left arm, his rear-end backed up to the headboard. This way, he can't squirm out of my arm to the back. I have also trimmed the claws sitting on a sofa; anyplace where you can back the cat up against something so they can't get away will work.

I hold the cat under my left arm, with my left hand in front of his chest. Always talking or singing to the cat, take a moment if he gets too squirmy to pet, talk, and calm him down again.

When you're ready to trim, quickly take one of your cat's front paws in your left hand and gently push a claw out of the toe. Snip off the sharp tip, being careful not to cut into the quick (you can see the pink quick through a cat's white claws). Then move to the next toe, the next, and the next, also remembering to trim the dew claw a little higher up the leg from the rest of the toes.

Once one foot is done, spend a moment petting, talking, and calming the cat again before moving on to the other front foot. Follow a similar method for that paw until those claws are all done.

Now comes the tricky part: the back paws! For this, I pick up the cat with both hands and flip him over onto his back in my lap, his head closest to my torso and his back feet by my knees. You should have practiced this position during your cuddle sessions, so by now it's familiar and comfortable for the cat. Spend a moment talking, singing, and stroking the cat to make sure he's calm. He'll try to push your hand away with his back feet, but move quickly and trim each of the four toes on each back foot before he realizes what's happened.

When all four paws are done, keep holding and talking to the cat briefly to calm him again, then release him and tell him, "You're all pedi-pedied!" He will likely take off and go somewhere to groom himself.

Once you've done this, you won't believe how simple it is! I tend to trim my cats' claws about once a month. Since I have three cats, it typically takes a day or two to get to them all. Once one is done, the others pick up that cat's heightened emotions and will steer clear of you for a little while.

The Last Resort: A Pro

Some cats are more aggressive and will not tolerate being handled at all. But those cats still need their claws trimmed. If you cannot get your cat comfortable enough with handling to trim claws, you may need to use a professional groomer or your veterinarian to have this done.

When using a groomer, be careful who you use. Find one who likes and specializes in cats, not a dog groomer. Someone who understands cats' nature and is accustomed to working with them will traumatize your cat far less than someone who prefers working with dogs. Ask about whether they plan to sedate or restrain your cat for the procedure, and what other calming techniques they will be using. It's going to be stressful for your cat to go somewhere, anyway, so you don't want it to be any worse than it has to be. If you can find a cat groomer who will come to your home to trim the claws, that's even better.

After the first time you use a new groomer, observe your cat's behavior. Many cats pout after coming home from such a trip, but if the cat is unusually lethargic or hostile, listen to your instincts about whether to continue using that groomer.

In Summary

Cats have claws; it's a part of who they are. Those claws need regular trimming, just as our own nails do. this procedure does not have to be unpleasant, for you or for the cat. With a little patience, planning, and conditioning, you can easily trim your cat's claws so you can continue living happily together.

Our Retail Site is Shut Down

Old Maid Cat Lady is Shut Down

In case you missed my earlier post on Facebook, I've temporarily shut down the Old Maid Cat Lady retail site. It may resurface again later, likely looking a bit different, but for now it's not available.

For this, you can thank the thieves who placed a large order on the site in June with a stolen credit card. I fulfilled the order in good faith, only to be charged back for it later, putting me into a financial hole out of which I'm still digging.

In order to devote sufficient time to promoting my book released this year, The Feline CEO, and the training I'm building around it, I cannot continue operating the retail site at this time.

Thank you for supporting Old Maid Cat Lady over the past decade. You are the reason I started the site, and the reason I kept it going for longer than was profitable for me. My belief in its mission of helping people to live more harmoniously with their feline companions remains steadfast.

Until we meet again!

Human Diseases Cats Can Catch

Human Diseases Cats Can Catch

Some of the media hysteria around community cats focuses on diseases they could supposedly inflict upon the human population. But in reality, cats cannot transmit many diseases to humans...in fact, they are far more susceptible to being infected with human diseases than the other way around.

This recent article was far more balanced in its report of a cat diagnosed with bubonic plague in Wyoming. It stated, in part:

The cat fully recovered from the infection, according to a spokesperson for the Wyoming Department of Health, and with modern antibiotics and treatment, plague infections pose no major threat – certainly nothing close to the ‘Black Death’ which wiped out millions of people during the Middle Ages.

Well, that's certainly a relief!

What do we need to know about keeping our cats safe from human diseases, especially at the height of cold and flu season? Here's what we found:

Types of Infections

Our bodies and our cats' are both susceptible to invading pathogens that fall into five main classifications:

• Bacteria - these include things like salmonella, listeria, e. coli, strep throat, tuberculosis, gonorrhea, and one form of meningitis.
• Viruses - these are smaller than bacteria and cause diseases such as the common cold, AIDS, herpes, and shingles.
• Fungal infections - These cause problems such as athlete's foot, ringworm, and jock itch.
• Parasites - We mainly think of worms with these: hookworms, roundworms, and tapeworms, but animals such as fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes are also parasites that spread diseases.
• Allergens -  While not technically pathogens, allergens could be any substance to which an individual has sensitivity. Certain foods, dust, dust mites, and pollen all fall into this causative category.

We (or our cats) can also become ill from a combination of two types of invaders. Only lab testing can determine the cause(s) of symptoms. Once that is determined, a course of treatment can be prescribed.

What Human Diseases Can Cats Catch?

When cats catch a disease from a human, it is known as zooanthroponosis or reverse zoonosis. A 2014 paper listed on the National Institutes of Health website commented that an increasing number of reports are emerging of animals being infected with human diseases. This makes sense, as our invasion of previously wild spaces for development means we are interacting more commonly with wild animals. Pet ownership keeps going up, which puts more people in close proximity to more domesticated animals. And more funding is being directed toward studying pet illnesses, so we're aware of many more connections than we used to be.

The main concern of the report listed above was animals in the food chain being infected. But since cats are obligate carnivores, it stands to reason that a threat to the health of animals raised to be meat would also threaten the cats that eat their meat.

Some of the diseases cats can catch from us are those that go both ways: we can infect each other with them. Here's a rundown of the most common zooanthroponotic diseases:

Bubonic plague

As the recent Wyoming cases illustrate, cats are mammals and can catch this disease that can infect all mammals. Luckily, it is easily treatable with antibiotics, but swift action is necessary to prevent death. If you suspect that your cat has been exposed to it, a visit to the veterinarian is in order.

Cancer

While cancer itself is not transmitted between individuals, if you smoke and your cats are exposed to secondhand smoke, they can get cancer from it. Not only lung cancer, either: since cats groom all the time, it's even more common for them to develop oral cancers from licking all those carcinogens off their coats. Because cats are so much smaller than we are, secondhand smoke poses a far greater risk to them than it does to us humans. Proportionally, they are receiving a much higher dosage of the carcinogens in smoke.

Vaping is popular now as a less-stinky alternative to cigarettes, but even that involves carcinogens. It has not been around long enough for us to yet know the long-term consequences of vaping.

Colds

Depending on the virus that causes your symptoms we define as a cold, your cat may catch it from you. Exotic breeds such as Bengals seem to be at higher risk of this.

Several types of viruses can cause colds. Many come from the rhinovirus, which does not seem to affect cats. But they can catch to the coronavirus from humans, if that's what is causing you to sneeze.

Cold symptoms in cats, however, are most often caused by other viruses that are not the same as the human cold viruses. These include the feline herpes virus and the feline calicivirus.

E. coli (Escherichia coli)

This bacterial infection has been the subject of several pet food and meat recalls. If you happen to get it from eating or handling raw or undercooked meats, you can transmit it to your cats. And if you feed your cats a raw diet, there's always the risk that the meat could carry some contamination.

Giardia (giardiasis)

Contaminated water is typically the source of this bacterial infection. If your children have been playing in streams or rain puddles and come down with a case of diarrhea, it could be the cause. If your cats have been out there with them, both could become ill, or the sick children could infect the cats.

Influenza (the flu)

A cat in Oregon became infected with the H1N1 flu virus in 2009. This was the first recorded case of a cat catching the flu from a human. The poor kitty developed pneumonia secondary to the flu infection and died in the hospital. 

Because there are so many different strains of influenza virus -- they morph even within the same year, so that a vaccine never protects a human against every strain that may be circulating that year --cats may be more susceptible to some than to others. This susceptibility could differ based on each's cat's individual physiology, just as with humans.

Flu symptoms in cats are similar to those in human, mainly respiratory. As with most cats when they are sick, your cat may not want to eat. 

MRSA (methycillin-resistant staphylococcus aureus)

Cats who have contracted this strain of bacteria usually lived with healthcare workers who had contracted it in a hospital setting, or with people who had recently been in the hospital themselves. Symptoms of MRSA in a cat could include fever, no desire to eat, skin abscesses, infections in the eyes, ears, or respiratory system, skin lesions filled with pus, and itching.

Ringworm (dermatophytosis)

This may be called ringworm, but it is not actually a worm. It is a fungal infection that causes a little itchy, dotted red circle on the skin. A cat will likely lick off the hair in the itchy area and cause a bald patch. Cats can get this if they come into direct contact with a person who has the fungal infection. 

Salmonella

Cats are more resistant to this bacteria than are humans, but that doesn't make them immune to it. It attacks the digestive tract, where kitty's symptoms would be similar to yours: nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, fever, and stomach cramps.

Tuberculosis (TB, Myobacterium tuberculosis complex)

TB was commonplace in past generations, when people infected with it either died or were sent to a sanatorium to recuperate. If a person survived, they were usually immune to the disease for life. Fortunately, a vaccine virtually eradicated the disease. However, with the anti-vax movement in today's society, it is again a concern.

Symptoms of TB in cats are similar to those in humans: primarily coughing and unexplained weight loss that may be accompanied by lesions or abscesses. The possibility of cats contracting TB from humans is believed to be very slim.

Cats can catch TB from infected humans, but also by eating the meat of an animal that was infected with it or from drinking cow's milk that has not been pasteurized if the cow was infected. Since "raw" cow's milk is often sold at local green markets as a healthier alternative to that sold in grocery stores, your cat could be exposed if any of the dairy cows giving that milk had TB. (Cats should not really drink cow's milk, anyway, as they are not typically able to digest it well and it can lead to diarrhea, but some say their cats can drink whole cow's milk without incident.)

What to Do if You Suspect Your Cat Has Caught a Human Disease

Obviously, your first step would be a trip to the veterinarian to make sure. Tell the vet about your concern so it can be considered when assessing the cat's condition. And understand that many feline diseases can exhibit the same symptoms as human diseases caused by a different pathogen or condition.

We once had a cat who exhibited intestinal distress and would moan with it sometimes. My mother commented that he "sounded like he was lovesick." Our vet at the time diagnosed him with pancreatitis and treated him for that, putting him on a special diet he'd have to remain on for life. The truth was much worse: he was in the second stage of F.I.P., a fatal and mysterious virus that infects cats (but not people). Only once the third (final) stage arrived did we know this, since there was no reliable medical test or treatment for F.I.P. at that time.

Your vet can do the necessary lab work to verify what is affecting your cat, even if you're certain the symptoms look like a disease someone else in your family recently had. This is not the time to self-diagnose. Let your vet and the lab techs do what they were trained to do.

Once back home, make sure your kitty's bedding area and potty are kept clean. Make fresh water available to kitty and encourage drinking plenty of it by using a fountain to give it some motion. A lot of cats don't want to eat when they're sick, but encourage the cat to eat by serving kitty's favorite meal. If the air is dry, consider using a humidifier...but do not diffuse essential oils, as many of those can be harmful to a cat's liver; with the cat already fighting off one infection, compromising the liver could prove fatal. And give your cat plenty of time to sleep, as this helps the body heal.

Depending on the diagnosis, there may be some natural or homeopathic supplements to help your cat recover. Make sure you discuss these options with your vet, so they don't interfere with or amplify the effects of any prescribed medications. Some allopathic vets are skeptical of herbal and homeopathic remedies, so make sure you and your chosen vet see eye to eye on that issue if you like to use the natural supplements.

How to Protect Your Cat From Human Diseases

Obviously, those who work with cats in veterinary clinics, shelters, breeding facilities, or rescue groups must maintain the cleanliness of those facilities and refrain from being in contact with the cats if they have any of the above-listed illnesses. Most of these facilities keep wall dispensers of hand sanitizer nearby, but using this is no substitute for thorough hand washing when handling the cats or their waste.

If you have any of the diseases mentioned above, try to prevent your cat from sleeping in the bed with you. This is easier said than done, as our cats tend to want to give us their healing purrs when they sense that we are sick. Hopefully, you have other family members who can care for the cats and distract them while you recuperate.

If someone in your human family has developed symptoms of one of the intestinal infections listed above, wash your hands frequently and avoid touching your cat. Keep kitty out of the bathroom when you are in there...again, easier said than done, but try. Keep the cats clear of the infected human and make sure the person's hands are clean. Disinfect clothing and household surfaces.

To avoid giving your kitty tuberculosis, avoid giving your cat unpasteurized cow's milk and be careful of where you source any raw meat you feed your cats.

In general, the same hygiene practices that protect us from spreading diseases between humans also protect our cats: frequent and thorough hand washing and a little extra care taken when sick not to expose your cats to the disease. The same goes for if you visit a sick person in the hospital, are hospitalized yourself, or work in a hospital.

If your cat is under additional stress (from things like moves, construction noise, grief, or household changes), you may consider giving kitty an immune-boosting supplement. While this won't prevent your cat from being exposed to diseases, it can help minimize the impact of any infections, helping your cat recover more quickly and with less severe symptoms.

How to Protect Yourself from Feline Diseases

If you keep yourself healthy, there's less chance of your spreading any type of disease to your cats.

Obviously, if you're fostering or adding a new cat to your household, keep the newcomer separate from your other cats and avoid too much contact until the cat has a health check by your vet. This will protect both you and your other feline companions.

Whenever you handle cat waste or food, always wash your hands thoroughly with soap afterward. And don't just run them under the water, spend a little time rubbing the soap all over the palms and backs of your hands, between all your fingers, and around your nails, to get to all the pathogens that may be present. I have read that singing the song "Happy Birthday to You" through while you're washing will keep you at it for the recommended amount of time. Washing your hands will take care of 90% of the danger of any infection from any diseases your cat may have.

Keep your household clean, as well: vacuum frequently and disinfect food surfaces daily and floors periodically. Completely empty and disinfect the interiors of litter boxes monthly, and refill them with fresh, clean litter. You can scoop and replace litter in between times, but toss it all when you clean the inside of the box.

It seems like new human diseases are being discovered all the time these days. Knowing which of them pose a risk for our cats is important. Armed with that knowledge, we can take the appropriate steps to protect our feline companions from harm.

Sources: Bradley S. Schneider, editor, "Reverse Zoonotic Disease Transmission (Zooanthroponosis): A Systematic Review of Seldom-Documented Human Biological Threats to Animals" on PLoS One, February 28, 2014; Pete Wedderburn, "Eight diseases that pets can pick up from people" in The Telegraph, September 26, 2017; Sylvia Booth Hubbard, "5 Illnesses You Can Give to Your Pet" on Newsmax June 17, 2015; "Can Cats and Dogs Catch Cold From You?" in Reader's Digest Best Health magazine.