Spotlight: Diabetes in Cats

Diabetes in Cats

November is National Pet Diabetes Month, so I decided to take a closer look at diabetes in cats. There's certainly a lot of information out there! I've compiled it into one overview that, while lengthy, looks at diabetes from all viewpoints.

Because it deals with the blood sugar, diabetes is also called diabetes mellitus or "sugar diabetes." It's a condition that was first recognized in the 1940s. One estimate stated that diabetes affects only up to 2% of all cats, but its incidence has been increasing since the 1980s. Here's the latest on it:

What Causes Diabetes in Cats?

In a normal cat's body, the digestive system breaks down the proteins, fats, and carbohydrates in food into tiny components that can be used by the body's cells for fuel. One of these tiny components is glucose, also known as blood sugar or serum fructosamine.

When it senses a rise in blood sugar, beta cells in your cat's pancreas produce insulin to regulate the level of glucose in the bloodstream and its storage in tissues. Insulin allows glucose to enter the cells so they can use it for fuel.

The liver stores glucose as glycogen. When blood sugar declines, alpha cells in the pancreas produce glucagon that triggers the liver to convert glycogen back into glucose because the body's cells are hungry for fuel. Studies in the last decade have shown that the liver can produce insulin, as well, to process simple carbohydrates in the diet.

A cat's kidneys serve as filters that remove waste products from the bloodstream and return essential nutrients to the cat's body. Glucose is usually one of these returned nutrients. But when the glucose level becomes too high, the kidneys can no longer process it all. The excess sugar is passed into the bladder for excretion in urine. There, it attracts water, dehydrating the cat and driving thirst. Bacteria love sugar, too, so they are drawn to the now sugar-rich urinary tract, where they can cause secondary infections (UTIs).

Along with the sugar, the kidneys will pull out certain electrolytes that should have been passed back into the bloodstream. The cat's levels of sodium and potassium will drop, causing weakness and lethargy.

Both insulin and glucagon are necessary for normal metabolism. They work in tandem, regulating the bloodstream's glucose level so that all the body's cells are properly nourished. The pancreas and liver work together to control their relationship.

Blood glucose level is also affected by many other factors beyond insulin and glucagon, such as:

• enzymes secreted by the pancreas into the small intestines
• epinephrine (adrenaline)
• cortisol (cortisone)
• feline growth hormone

The feline body needs far less carbohydrates than do our human bodies. Cats are obligate carnivores, lacking a specific liver enzyme that allows for proper processing of carbohydrates. Their gastrointestinal tract is far shorter than a dog's or a human's. Designed to get most of their nutrition from protein, their bodies simply aren't efficient at metabolizing carbs from grains and actual sugar.

In nature, cats would eat a diet consisting of perhaps 2-3% carbs. Most dry cat foods contain 35-50% carbs. Is it any wonder our cats are becoming obese and developing diabetes with increasing frequency?

In some diabetic cats, beta cells in the pancreas do not produce enough insulin to regulate blood sugar. This is referred to as Type 1 diabetes. It is quite uncommon for cats to have this, but most commonly affects cats in middle age. It is always insulin-dependent. A cat with this type may be able to maintain enough insulin to be fine most of the time, but when put into a stressful situation, diabetic symptoms may start to appear.

Or the cat's cells may have developed some type of resistance to insulin -- this is more common in cats suffering from obesity. Fat cells produce a substance that decreases the cells' ability to respond to insulin. Cats with an overactive thyroid gland (hyperthyroidism) can also develop insulin resistance. This condition is known as Type 2 diabetes. Metabolism of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats will become abnormal. The organs will all be working harder to push all that excess sugar out of the body. Damage will eventually lead to lowered insulin production in Type 2 diabetes, as well. About 1% of all cats will get Type 2 diabetes, which works out to around 800,000 kitties in the United States alone. Stress can push some cats with Type 2 into Type 1 diabetes.

There is also a Type 3 of diabetes. It is usually due to other diseases that have damaged the cat's pancreas and is extremely rare. The cat's immune system attacks the beta cells in kitty's pancreas that generate insulin. Immune cells bring along a compound known as amyloid that is toxic to these beta cells.

When the brain's appetite center senses that blood sugar is low, it generates an urge to eat. In a normal cat's body, this would spur the cat to eat food that the body would then break down into glucose to feed the cells. But when insulin levels are decreased, this center cannot sense glucose in the blood, so it mistakenly thinks the cat needs to eat. Eating makes the blood sugar rise even more, giving the body excess sugar to process.

Before developing diabetes, cats -- just like people -- can go through a pre-diabetic state. During this time, their pancreas is working as hard as it can to produce insulin to combat all the carbohydrates in the diet. These persistently higher levels of blood sugar will finally exhaust the pancreas so that diabetes sets in. But if caught early, proper management of the cat's diet can completely reverse the damage.

Some cats also experience transient diabetes, in which they may be dependent on insulin for a while, then lose the need for it. This may come and go. The stretches where insulin is not required may be only days or can go on for months.

Because the glucose they need for fuel cannot enter the cells, it has to go somewhere else. The cat's liver and kidneys start working at their maximum capacity to eliminate this sugar. Excess glucose will be eliminated in the cat's urine. Once the liver has stored all the sugar it can and the kidneys are processing as much as they can, that sugar starts going into the bloodstream. Excessive sugar (glucose) in the bloodstream is known as hyperglycemia.

Many factors can come into play with diabetes:

• Diet, especially feeding dry cat food (kibble)
• Weight
• Genetics
• Stress
• Inflammation
• Some viral diseases
• Autoimmune diseases
• Physical trauma
• The cat's exercise level
• Toxins
• Medications, especially steroids and beta blockers

How Does Diabetes Affect Cats?

Cats with diabetes are suffering from having the fat and protein stores in their bodies broken down to use for energy. Their organs are either functioning at maximum capacity, or being broken down for fuel.

If left untreated, diabetes will shorten your kitty's life. With their fuel being diverted instead of absorbed, the cat's cells are not receiving proper nourishment. In essence, the cells are starving. Kitty's body begins breaking down its own fat and muscle protein to get the energy the cells need in an attempt to normalize metabolism.

High levels of ketones in the bloodstream will make a cat thirsty as normal metabolism is disrupted. Excessive thirst is also the result of vomiting caused by these ketones. They change the blood's pH balance and can lead to fatty liver disease. The cat's electrolytes get out of balance and kitty will go into a supplementary condition known as diabetic ketoacidosis. This is a medical emergency that can be fatal. More on it in the section on symptoms below.

Cats with diabetes can develop liver disease and secondary bacterial infections. When untreated, diabetes can also develop high blood pressure. The kidneys can become damaged from processing all that excess sugar.

Some diabetic cats will have diabetic neuropathy, just like humans. Some old-school vets will resort to amputating limbs affected by this rather than addressing the diabetes more aggressively.

Where cats differ from humans is that diabetes will not typically damage a cat's kidneys, blood vessels, or coronary arteries, nor do cats tend to have vision problems from diabetes. Another significant difference is that the beta cells in a cat's pancreas can sometimes be revived and actually start producing insulin again! We humans can't do that.

What Puts a Cat at Risk for Diabetes?

While no specific breeds of cats are more prone than others, there are several risk factors that can make a cat more susceptible to diabetes:

• Age: over 6 years
• Obesity
• Being male and neutered
• Inactivity
• Chronic pancreatitis
• Various hormonal/endocrine diseases: acromegaly, Cushing's, hyperthyroidism
• Some medications: corticosteroids, beta blockers, megestrol acetate
• Being a Burmese cat in the UK, Australia, or New Zealand
• Chronic renal (kidney) failure

If your cat has been affected by any of these, be especially diligent in looking for symptoms that could indicate diabetes.

The one most prevalent risk factor for a cat developing diabetes is a diet consisting mainly of dry cat food (kibble). This is something that is completely controllable.

What Are the Symptoms of Feline Diabetes?

Cats are good at masking symptoms of illness until they are almost dead, so watch carefully for any signs of diabetes. Earlier treatment is always better, as it will minimize the damage caused to your cat's body by excess glucose.

Your diabetic cat may eat more, but still lose weight. These cats may become almost ravenous. They will urinate more often and seem excessively thirsty. There may be more "accidents" of urination outside the litter box. You may notice problems with your kitty's skin becoming dry and flaky and the coat appearing dull and oily.

Some cats will lose their appetite. They may nap more. As their bodies consume existing stores of fat and then muscle tissue, they will become thin and bony through the back and in the back legs. Eventually, this process will start to attack cells in the brain, heart, and lungs. As the kidneys become clogged with ketones from the digestion of muscle tissue, they can clog and will eventually fail.

If your cat suffers from diabetic neuropathy, you may notice kitty walking differently to take pressure off the painful area of the paw pads. Their gait will become more flat-footed instead of walking on their toes like cats normally do. As the muscles of their back legs are broken down to feed the body's cells, they can become weak. You may notice the rear legs wobbling as kitty walks.

Cats who go into diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA) will lose their voracious appetite and begin to vomit and have diarrhea. It can be brought on if your diabetic cat has not had enough food, or enough insulin, or has developed a high insulin resistance due to other health problems. The cat may not eat for more than 12 hours. They will become lethargic and weak, unable to keep enough water in them to stay properly hydrated. They may walk into things or circle inexplicably. These cats may stagger as though drunk. Their breath may smell like fruit or nail polish remover. These cats may also start to shake or have fast, labored breathing. In severe cases, they may lapse into a coma. Obviously, cats exhibiting these symptoms need to be taken to the veterinarian immediately.

When your veterinarian checks for diabetes, this is done by examining the cat's symptoms and testing the levels of sugar in the blood and urine. This can be tricky, because many other conditions can cause cats to have higher than normal blood glucose levels -- even stress. A test for serum fructosamine, which shows sugars attached to proteins in the blood, can improve the chance of a correct diagnosis. Another test they can run is for glycosylated hemoglobin, which can reveal an average blood glucose level for the past 2-3 months. For optimal results, they will ask you to withhold food from your cat for 8-12 hours before taking samples to run these tests.

High sugar level in the urine is called glycosuria. In addition to high levels of sugar, your vet will look for ketones, the result of the cat's body digesting its own fat and muscle protein, in the urine.

How is Diabetes Treated in Cats?

The first step is to work in tandem with your veterinarian. Managing diabetes is complicated and every cat's system is different. You need the help of a trained professional to do it correctly. While there are many online sources of information, some of them conflict and can be confusing to the layperson.

If your cat has developed ketoacidosis (DKA), hospitalization is necessary. It is considered to be a medical emergency. Your vet will administer fluids, electrolytes, and carefully regulated insulin injections until glucose and ketones are under control and kitty is stable enough to go home. The vet may also treat any secondary bacterial infections or other diseases that may have set in as a result of the condition.

Cats who are diagnosed earlier are treated in a variety of ways. Remission of the diabetes is always the goal. Each cat's system is unique and treatment will vary from individual to individual. A mere change of diet may put the diabetes in permanent remission in some cats. This should be the first course of treatment in most cases.

The cat's diet is the most critical thing that must be addressed, especially if obesity is a factor. Gradual weight loss is essential, no more than about 1% of the cat's body weight per week. Steer clear of kibble diets advertised as "weight control", as they tend to substitute carbohydrates for the protein kitty needs. Feed only wet foods (canned, pouched, or defrosted frozen). Keep a weekly log of your cat's weight. You may want to invest in a baby scale to get the most accurate numbers.

In the past, eating food higher in fiber and complex carbohydrates was recommended for overweight cats. A diet like this shifts the cat's digestion into a lower gear so that sugar is released more slowly into the system. This, however, typically works better on cats with Type 1 diabetes, which is quite rare. Remember, a cat's natural diet is very low in carbohydrates. Be wary of the high-priced "prescription" foods only available from your vet, as many of these are actually higher in carbohydrates than is healthy for a diabetic cat.

Especially in cats with Type 2 diabetes, vets are increasingly advocating an immediate change in diet and careful monitoring for 3-5 days to see if that alone can reverse the cat's diabetic state. Most recent studies point to a diet high in protein and low in carbohydrates. A grain-free food is essential. Especially avoid rice, corn, and potatoes. Cats do not need fruit or vegetables, either. Small meals 2-3 times per day are preferred instead of one large meal to stabilize blood sugar levels. A supplement containing Omega-3 fatty acids can be helpful if kitty's skin is dry and flaky, especially if you're feeding a low-fat diet.

This dietary change can quickly send diabetes into remission in many cats so that insulin will no longer need to be given. When switching a diabetic cat to a low-carb diet if you're also giving insulin, you'll need to carefully monitor blood sugar daily to avoid the dangerous condition of hypoglycemia (discussed below).

Underweight kitties may be given a high-calorie diet to get back up to optimal weight. It's preferred that you switch to timed feedings instead of allowing your diabetic cat to free-feed throughout the day. Feedings will need to correspond with insulin injections and should be given at the same time each day. Portions should also be controlled.

Homeopathic treatments for diabetes include administering tinctures including Belladonna 30C, Natrum muriaticum 6C, Phosphorus 6C, and Thuja 30C. One mixture we used to sell on Old Maid Cat Lady was GlucoEnsure by PetAlive. Its combination of homeopathic elements support the cat's pancreas to help it produce insulin.

Vets who use herbs have many herbal options for treating diabetic cats. These include fenugreek seed, gymnema sylvestre, bitter melon, and turmeric. Do not attempt these therapies on your own, however; they require the expertise of a professional to get the correct balance. Typically such treatments are used in conjunction with dietary changes and insulin treatment.

Acupuncture has also been used as supportive treatment for diabetes. It is said to work by clearing lactate from the kidneys and liver and increasing the production of cortisol. While not a substitute for conventional treatment, it can also have positive effects on the pain and inflammation associated with diabetic neuropathy. Acupuncture can also be quite effective for cats with transient diabetes.

Another supportive treatment for diabetes is massage. It can help with the tightness that sometimes accompanies diabetic neuropathy, but will not address the insulin insufficiency that causes diabetes.

Diabetic cats may need insulin that can be administered orally or via injection at home. Injections are typically given in a cat's side, where circulation is good. They are always given in conjunction with meals. Your veterinarian will show you how to give the injections. Thanks to tiny needles, many cats do not even notice that they're receiving them!

Current types of insulin being given for diabetic cats are Lantus® (Glargine insulin), ProZinc® (protamine zinc insulin, or PZI), and Vetsulin® (Lente insulin). PZI is developed from cow or pig insulin, which are closest to the type naturally produced by cats, so it is the preferred type of insulin for treating feline diabetes. The newest of these is the Glargine, which is also used for humans, but it is more unpredictable and difficult to manage when used for cats. It is also more expensive. And it can produce an allergic reaction in some cats. Lente use is increasing in cats. It is made from pig insulin. Some vets use Humulin® for cats, as well.

The type of insulin administered is important, as it can determine whether the cat will need insulin for the rest of its life, or just until glucose is normalized and the diabetes appears to be in remission. Each cat responds differently to each type of insulin, however, so your vet will be the best judge of which to prescribe for your kitty. A 1969 study revealed that insulin also increases by up to 250% the risk of heart attack and stroke. So it is nothing to be taken lightly.

If you must inject insulin, the cat will usually require two injections per day. You will also need to check kitty's blood sugar daily, usually about 6-8 hours after an insulin injection. This is done using the same type of equipment used to check blood sugar levels in humans. The Abbott Precision Xtra meter is commonly used. Urine sugar can be tested with Keto-Diastix strips. There are even some cat litters that now contain crystals that will change color in the presence of ketones in the urine.

Glipizide is a type of insulin that is given orally to lower blood sugar. It is not recommended for most cats, as the injections work better. Not only does this form cost more, it can take up to 10 weeks to become effective. There are also a few side effects of the oral medication: vomiting, appetite loss, and liver damage. But these are uncommon.

Monitoring blood sugar is important during treatment, as getting too much insulin can cause it to drop dangerously below normal. This condition is known as hypoglycemia. Cats suffering from it will grow weak and listless, appear uncoordinated, and possibly go into convulsions or coma. If you don't catch it in time, it can cause brain damage or even be fatal.

Most cats function normally, when relaxed at home, within a range of 60-100 blood glucose, even though a range of 80-130 is considered normal. In a stressful situation, a cat's blood sugar can temporarily spike to a level of 300-500. It's when this elevated level becomes consistent that problems occur.

If your cat's blood sugar check shows a level lower than normal, immediately feed the cat a small meal of wet food high in protein. Cats who have progressed to the stage of hypoglycemia to the point that they are unable to eat are even more critical. Some vets advise to rub a little corn syrup on their gums or give it directly into the mouth by syringe, while others say never to do this. Because of this uncertainty, it's far better to manage your cat's diabetes responsibly so this condition does not occur. Obviously, hypoglycemic cats who are unable to eat need to get to the vet immediately.

Once your cat is diagnosed with diabetes, you'll need to carefully watch for the warning signs that initially alerted you to the condition. Blood sugar consistently above 150 is a problem. Check with your vet if you see these symptoms again, as they could indicate a need to adjust kitty's insulin dosage.

A new therapy being tried by naturopathic veterinarians involves using animal tissues and pancreas extracts to repair damage to your cat's organs and glands. Since cats in the wild would consume whole prey, they would get these nutrients naturally. In our highly processed commercial pet foods, however, some of the organs present in whole prey are removed. Results of this therapy are few, but promising.

You will need to visit your vet about every 3-4 months for follow-up testing. When managed properly, cats with diabetes can live for many more years and enjoy a good quality of life.

How Can I Prevent Diabetes in My Cat?

Prevention really is far preferable to going through an exhausting and expensive course of treatment! Diabetes is not curable, per se, but the more common Type 2 diabetes can go into remission when successfully managed. Since weight plays such a large role in diabetes, keeping your cat at an optimal weight is a great way to keep from having to give injections and do blood tests!

Stop feeding your cat dry food (kibble). It may be convenient, but it's unhealthy. Since all dry cat food contains carbohydrates your cat's body can't process, it's safer to stick to a wet (canned) or raw diet to keep your cat healthiest. This is also a much better way to control portions so that your cat doesn't become obese. Many veterinarians tell us that it's our modern over-reliance on the convenience of dry kibble for cats that is causing the recent upsurge in feline diabetes. It's the equivalent of feeding your children a diet composed mainly of French fries and breakfast cereal. They may love it, but it's not healthy.

Even among canned foods, there are differences, however. And price alone is not a factor; many high priced and "prescription" foods are too high in carbs for your cats. And some lower-priced foods are better than you'd think. Canned foods with a lot of gravy or sauce tend to also be heavier in carbs. Ignore the marketing hype. Read the small print on cans, but be aware that those figures may be years old and not reflect what's actually inside that can you're holding. Find a food that gets less than 10% of its calories from carbohydrates.

A cat's natural diet is whole prey. This is about 45-70% dry protein, 15-35% fat, and under 5% dry carbohydrate. If you must feed a commercial cat food, look for one with a makeup as close to these percentages as you can find. There are also places where you can buy frozen whole prey to feed your cats: baby mice ("pinkies"), quail, etc., if you have the stomach for preparing and serving it. Many cats will readily switch over to eating these, even if they've been fed exclusively kibble before.

Watch the fat content in canned food, as well, especially with lower-priced brands. Fat is cheaper than protein, and it makes the food tastier for the cats, so read those labels. Look for diets higher in muscle meat, without vegetable proteins like soy, or grains. Cats cannot survive on a vegan diet. Meat by-products are fine, as these are usually organs a cat would eat naturally on a whole prey diet. You may choose to start making your own cat foods. There are many online guides that can show you how to do this, including some of the sources listed at the end of this article.

Encourage your cat to exercise daily. This is easy, as cats love to play! It can be done by providing plenty of toys and climbing structures, but also by playing with your cat each day using interactive toys. The interaction helps cement the bond between you and your cat, as an added advantage. This will also make your kitty happier emotionally, which leads to better behavior.

Keep track of your cat's weight, water intake, urine output, and appetite. If you notice any changes, especially if all four of them change relatively quickly, visit your veterinarian. Again, diabetic cats should be seeing their vet about every 3-4 months. This is especially important for cats who are over 10 years old.

A diagnosis of diabetes is certainly an inconvenience and an expense, but with proper treatment your cat may recover completely. At the very least, you should be able to enjoy many more years with your kitty!

Sources: "Feline Diabetes", Cornell Feline Health Center; "Diabetes Mellitus in the Cat", Winn Feline Foundation; "Feline Diabetes", The Original Internet Guide to Feline Diabetes; "Feline Diabetes: Symptoms, Treatments, Prevention, and Diet Tips", WebMD; "Feline Diabetes" by Lisa A. Pierson, DVM, CatInfo.org; "Feline Diabetes Mellitus", American Association of Feline Practitioners; "What is feline diabetes?", "Risk factors", "Diagnosis", "Treatment" and "F.A.Q.", My Cat Has Diabetes; "Treating Diabetes Holistically" by Dr. Larry Siegler, Only Natural Pet; "Feline Diabetes: A New Look at an Old Disease" by Dr. Donna Spector, Halo Pets; "Natural Treatment of Feline Diabetes (With Infographic)" by Melody McKinnon, All Natural Pet Care; "Protocol for Success in Managing Feline Diabetes", YourDiabeticCat.com; "Acupuncture Can Help Diabetic Cats & Dogs by Clearing Lactate", Dr. Pollen, "Acupuncture for Dogs and Cats: Diabetes", Bottom Line Personal; "Diabetes Mellitus (Sugar Diabetes)", Long Beach Animal Hospital.

It's National Animal Shelter and Rescue Appreciation Week!

Support Your Local Animal Shelter or Cat Rescue Group!

Each year, the first full week of November is set aside to honor those working in shelters and rescue groups to rescue animals. It's draining work. Just seeing the sheer numbers of homeless animals can quickly become overwhelming. So let's take a closer look at what these folks do, naturally focusing on the cats in their care, and how we can help them.

What Shelter Workers Do

Employees and volunteers at municipal shelters see a daily influx of cats, dogs, and often other animals: rabbits, pigs, goats, horses, reptiles, birds...you name it, and somebody's likely turned it in at a shelter. Nationwide, the ASPCA reports that around 7.6 million animals arrive at shelters each year. 3.4 million of those are cats. 

The pets may be brought in as strays or surrendered by owners who no longer wish to care for them. Some are sick, injured, or dying. All are confused, frightened, and aware that other animals there are also fearful for their lives. Calling it a stressful environment is a severe understatement!

What these folks do with the never-ending flood of unwanted pets is to give them hope and comfort. Veterinarians, either on staff or volunteering their services, examine the animals, screen for diseases, care for the sick, and perform spay/neuter surgeries on those going into adoptions. 

The cats likely go into a quarantine area upon arrival until they get a clean bill of health. They are put into a cage or crate with a litter box, bed or blanket (if one is available), and a water dish. They may be given a little food. Beyond this, the animals coming in receive very little attention from the intake staff because there's always another coming in not far behind them.

Other shelter workers or volunteers give the animals food and water, clean their cages, assess their personalities for adoption, exercise the dogs, play with the cats, mop the floors, and move the animals where they need to be. There is always laundry to be done, paperwork to be processed, and poop to be scooped somewhere.

For cats who have been living on the streets or as part of a feral colony, the confinement itself is stressful. The noise of dogs constantly barking nearby adds to their fear. Some cats choose to spend all their time sitting in the litter box, finding their own bodily scents comforting. Others will hide anywhere they can find, even if this means just putting their face in a corner of the crate. Some may become aggressive whenever someone reaches for them in the cage; after all, this is what people do when they're about to end the life of an unwanted animal.

That task in itself must be the most stressful of all. Shelters have only so much space, so ending the lives of healthy, adoptable animals merely because they have no homes is far too common. Each year, 1.2 million dogs and 1.4 million cats meet their end in a shelter. In some shelters, the animals are dead even before the person dropping them off has completed the surrender paperwork.

Only when an animal is in severe pain or suffering can this be called euthanasia. Thankfully, many shelters are turning to the no-kill system and choosing to end the killing of healthy animals. Nathan Winograd, a shelter director who abhorred the killing and sought to stop it, founded the No Kill Advocacy Center to help other shelters adopt his practices. Best Friends Animal Society also helps shelters and rescues end the killing by providing support and training.

Running a no-kill shelter requires the help of many volunteers, and the dedication of leaders who embrace the concept that no animal deserves to die merely for being homeless. They work in partnership with other local rescue groups to get healthy animals adopted, while caring for the sick and injured who can be saved until they're ready to go into adoptions.

Yes, shelter work is stressful. Employees often burn out after a short tenure. Most love the animals they care for and are dedicated to keeping them safe and healthy until they are adopted into new, loving homes. They must endure seeing animals who have been intentionally abused. Animals injured with no known owner. Animals too sick for their owners to be able to afford their vet bills. People posing as adopters who are merely trying to acquire animals for nefarious purposes. People tearful at being forced to surrender their beloved pets due to circumstances beyond their immediate control. These shelter workers must look into the eyes of the animals left behind, trying to answer their questions about why they've been abandoned, why they've been hurt, and what will happen to them there.

How We Can Help Shelters and Rescue Groups

Thankfully, we can help stressed-out shelter workers in several ways! Familiarize yourself with your local shelter and cat rescue organizations. Once you know who they are, choose where you will focus your efforts.

If you have the time, volunteer at your local shelter. The work may not always be pleasant, but the company certainly is! Do laundry, scoop litter boxes, play with bored and lonely cats, cuddle and comfort them, socialize the kittens and teach them how to play safely with humans. Help them publicize the animals available for adoption. Help train other volunteers. Help them with the flood of paperwork, as there's always plenty of that. Whatever they'll let you do, do it!

When volunteering at a municipal shelter, be aware of their rules and be certain to follow them. Many an over-enthusiastic volunteer has put the life of an animal in danger while trying to help. Don't let that person be you!

Shelters are always in need of beds, blankets, towels, toys...anything that can help make an animal's stay there a little more comfortable. You can make such items if you enjoy that sort of thing.

Not the crafty type? Shelter support groups often need people to serve in leadership positions. This likely goes hand in hand with volunteering your time at the shelter itself, just so you have an understanding of what they face. If you can't volunteer directly with the animals, perhaps the publicity side of things is more your area of expertise. Help with their website or take photos and make flyers about adoptable animals there. Maybe you can handle interaction with local pet stores to organize adoption events for the animals. Or organize fundraisers to supplement their thin budget. They can likely supply you with a full list of things you can do to help!

If you don't have the time to volunteer at your local shelter or rescue group, perhaps you have the means to support them financially. Every gift, no matter how small, is welcome and will go to help the animals there. Donate supplies such as beds, crates, and toys. Make sure they're clean, so as not to spread disease. If toys are washable, all the better, as the shelter has to wash and re-use toys once animals move on and are replaced by others. Shelters get a lot of donations through the holiday season, but many people forget about them the rest of the year. Let your support be ongoing.

In the event that your own cats get outside and become lost, make sure they have identification that will help them find their way home to you. If they have microchips, make sure that your address and contact information are updated for them. Shelters always scan incoming animals for a microchip, but are often frustrated when the owner has moved and neglected to update their information. Or put a tag on your cat's collar or harness with your information on it. The SmartLink tag was one we offered on Old Maid Cat Lady.

If nothing else, just say thank-you to the people who work at your local shelter or rescue group. That little bit of gratitude may be just what they need to turn around an otherwise overwhelming day.

Yes, shelter work is stressful and very much needed in our society. Let's all honor our shelter and rescue workers and volunteers this week, and pitch in to help them!

Sources: "Pet Statistics", American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals; "Ten Ways to Help Your Local Shelter or Rescue", The Humane Society of the United States.

Spotlight: Eosinophilic Granuloma

Eosinophilic Granuloma in Cats

Someone recently posted on Facebook that she was hoping her cat didn't have this condition based on a small lesion she'd found, so I thought it might be a good topic for an Old Maid Cat Lady blog post. It's been forever since I've written one, and this is as good a topic as any with which to resume.

What is Eosinophilic Granuloma Complex?

Basically, "EGC" is a skin inflammation that can look pretty scary. The term is used loosely to refer to different things, which can be confusing. Some vets also now refer to this complex as "feline eosinophilic diseases" which further adds to the confusion. More common names for the lesions are "rodent ulcer" or "lick ulcer".

There are three - possibly four - different syndromes that can cause the type of skin lesions commonly referred to as eosinophilic granuloma:

1. Eosinophilic plaque is typically found on a cat's abdomen, groin, or thigh area. These contain white blood cells known as eosinophils. They most often affect cats from ages 2-6 years, and are the itchiest form of the three.
2. Actual eosinophilic granulomas also contain eosinophils. These are also known as linear granulomas or collagenolytic granulomas. They are usually found on the face, in the mouth, or on back of the thighs. You may see these in cats who are genetically predisposed to get them when kittens, or before they turn 2 years old. Sometimes they will resolve on their own, without treatment.
3. Indolent ulcers are defined, ulcerated lesions most often found on the cat's upper lip. These are also known as rodent ulcer, about which I wrote another blog post last year. Be careful with these, as they may morph into a cancerous lesion.
4. Atypical eosinophilic dermatitis is the least common form. This one appears on areas of the body with the least hair, including the nose, ear tips, and footpads. Some veterinarians do not consider this to be a separate type of eosinophilic granuloma, grouping it with the #2 type above.

The first three types of lesions may develop simultaneously in your cat. Or you may see only one. As a complex, they are unique to felines. They are, however, rather uncommon. Additional forms can affect your cat's eyes and digestive tracts, although most vets still try to classify this condition based on the first three types listed above.

Because they're itchy, cats will often scratch, lick, or bite at these lesions. Once the skin is broken, this exposes them to other pathogens in the environment so that a secondary infection may occur. So they're not something you want to leave untreated.

What causes eosinophilic granuloma in cats?

Basically, allergies. As with all allergic reactions, it is an immune system disorder. Eosinophils are white blood cells that the body normally produces from bone marrow in response to contact with parasites and other bodily invaders.

Your cat may be allergic or hypersensitive to all types of things, from food additives to pollen, cleaning products...or even dust! When the cat's body senses the presence of these substances, the eosinophils think the body is being invaded by a parasite and release chemicals that cause inflammation (swelling) to kill the parasite. An overabundance of these in response to an otherwise benign substance causes the eosinophils to attack the collagen in the cat's skin and causes the lesions to erupt.

Some cats will develop these types of granulomas in response to a flea, mite, mosquito, or other insect bite. In multi-cat households, in fact, flea allergy dermatitis is often the first suspected cause. A secondary common parasite, cheyletiella mites - also known as "walking dandruff" - may be the culprits. Ringworm fungi and Demodex mites are others. The fourth type described above is always the result of an allergy to a mosquito bite.

Some cats have an allergic reaction to antibiotics or other types of medications. Airborne irritants like pollen or chemicals may also cause it: whereas we sneeze, our cats itch. Dust mites in your home, which are present year-round no matter how clean you keep your house, can also cause this type of allergy. If the lesions are seasonal, it's most likely pollen.

Some studies have indicated a significant genetic link to the tendency to develop these types of lesions. Most studies have shown that a cat's breed apparently has no connection to the condition. Another study showed increased risk among Himalayan cats. Females do show a slightly higher likelihood of developing the syndrome than do males, although this has not been greatly studied.

In some cases, no cause can ever be detected. Sometimes the lesions will resolve on their own, in which case it was probably a seasonal allergen that was undetected in testing. If your cat is going to get this condition, you will likely first see symptoms of it between ages 2-6 years.

What are the symptoms of eosinophilic granuloma in cats?

As varied as they are mysterious, the lesions associated with this condition may crop up suddenly or develop slowly over time. Your cat may scratch and lick them, or completely ignore them.

Often these lesions will appear as a rash around your cat's back legs or inside the mouth. They could be bumps or ulcers, and may be large or small. Most will be itchy, so your cat will most likely be scratching, licking, or biting at them.

The licking sometimes causes hair loss so that area around the lesions will be bald, making them easier to spot. If the hair hasn't all fallen out in that area, it will likely be wet and matted from the cat's frequent licking of the itchy spots. Licking and scratching also irritates the lesions, contributing further to the redness and swelling. You may notice swollen lymph nodes in the area.

Look for a defined, raised, yellow-pink lesion in the abdomen, thighs, or upper lip. These may appear ulcerated. Inside the mouth, on the face, or on the back of the cat's thighs, the lesions may appear more like a mass or nodule. You may find all three types at the same time, or just one or two types. Treatment for all three types is the same, so it really doesn't matter.

In the abdomen, thigh area, footpads, or near the cat's anus, the lesions will appear as very defined, yellowish-pink or white, raised, and round or oval in shape. They look something like hives, but are long and thin in a line where several of them have merged. Some have likened their appearance to a lightning bolt. It can also look like a cobblestone pattern. Quite often they will ulcerate, glistening like they're moist or even weeping fluid...if not ulcerated, they will look more like tumors or bumps. These may also appear under the kitty's front legs. You might see some hair loss and redness there, too.

The cat's lip or chin may swell from the eosinophilic granulomas. These may also merge like the ones on the backs of the thighs, and may cause pain that prevents your kitty from eating normally. There may be ulcers on the gums, palate, or upper lip. Sometimes they will bleed or cause the cat to drool. They can get quite large. When long-lasting, they may eventually grow concave and have a harder feel to them and cause the lymph nodes in the cat's neck to swell. If you find one on kitty's lip, check inside the mouth for more. These can cause permanent disfiguration.

Some older cats may get a smooth nodule that almost looks like a wart in the mouth or throat area. These can sometimes interfere with swallowing, or even breathing.

The indolent type (rodent ulcer) will not bleed and may not even cause any pain. They may appear on one side of your kitty's upper lip...or on both sides...or on the back of the tongue. And they may come and go.

Swelling may also happen on the footpads. This form seems to especially affect younger cats, under age 3. The nodules there will be raised, thickened and red. The footpads may crack. When this occurs, there will be some pain involved and you may notice some odor. Your kitty may favor the affected paws or appear lame when walking. Paws that are infected from injury will be warm and feverish, but that is not the case with EGC-inflamed paws.

Another very rare form of this condition can also affect the corneas of the eyes. This is known as eosinophilic karatitis. The clear cornea on the outer portion of the cat's eye will develop a raised, rough area that's amber-pink-gray in color. It does not respond to the usual treatments for eye injuries.

Although not all vets consider it to be a type of eosinophilic granuloma, there is another form of inflammation that can affect your cat's digestive tract. It may cause diarrhea, vomiting, and weight loss. All of these can also be symptoms of other digestive diseases, as well. A biopsy will reveal the difference.

In some cats, you'll see a recurrence of this condition throughout their lives. With others, they may have one incident and never have it again. Still others will never get it at all!

How is eosinophilic granuloma in cats treated?

Hope you've got your Sherlock Holmes deerstalker hat handy! The key to treating this condition is to eliminate the source allergen from your cat's environment. Before going to the vet, think carefully about whether anything new has been introduced to your cat's diet or your home that may have coincided with the onset of symptoms. Make a list of these.

Cats are highly affected emotionally by changes in their environment, so look at those stressors, as well. If someone in the family has recently moved in or out, you've remodeled, or have added a new pet to the household, this could trigger a reaction that looks like EGC.

If you've recently started feeding a new food or treat, stop feeding that for 6-10 weeks and see if the lesions disappear on their own. If they do, try re-introducing the new food to see if they reappear. If so, you have your culprit. The same goes for cat litter; if you've recently changed, go back to the old one and see if it gets rid of the lesions.

Have you started using a new type of laundry detergent or fabric softener? The cat may be sensitive to it. Plastic dishes can also cause reactions, as everything will get embedded in the tiny scratches of their surface. Switching to stainless steel or ceramic should help in those cases.

Have you recently started using a new type of household cleaner? Stop using it and see if the lesions go away, just as with the food trial. Has your cat been going outdoors in the evening during mosquito season? That could be the cause.

Have fleas infested your home or yard where the cat goes? This is probably the most common cause of EGC. Vacuum your house thoroughly, including using the edge cleaner to get all the way around the edges of rooms. Empty the bag immediately afterward. Use a flea comb and flip your cat over to look at the belly area; you may be surprised! There's your villains. If you use one of the spot-on flea treatments, the site of application may develop an irritation that looks like EGC. Check your cat(s) for ticks, as well. All cats in the home need to be treated, not just the one with the allergy.

Once you've tried the process of elimination and your kitty's still itchy, red and swollen, it's time to go to the vet. Remember that list of things you made earlier? Take the list with you, and note on it which things you tried removing and what the results of each were.

In addition to doing a complete physical exam, your vet may run blood work and a urinalysis to help diagnose the condition. The vet may also test your cat for FeLV and FIV, just as a precaution. These lesions look like a host of other, more serious, conditions, so it's important to do the right testing to get a proper diagnosis.

A biopsy may be taken if cancer is suspected. If the eye is affected, a test for FHV-1 (feline herpes) virus will also be given. Skin scrapings will most likely be taken for a histopathology and microscopic examination to check for bacteria, fungi, and other potential tiny causes. They will probably also take a smear of the lesions themselves because the eosinophils are quite distinctive when viewed under a microscope.

Some vets may do skin testing, where they inject highly diluted allergens just under your kitty's skin to see the reaction. Others do not find this helpful at all. It is similar to the allergy scratch-testing they do on humans. If the area injected gets red and swollen, the cat is allergic to that substance.

Veterinarians typically treat all three types of inflammation in this syndrome with corticosteroids, usually prednisolone or dexamethasone. These can be given by injection or with pills you administer orally. One to three injections over several weeks typically does the trick. A topical steroid spray can also be used with less side effects, although some cats will lick it off. Your cat should not have to remain in the hospital for this treatment unless it's a severe case that's causing significant pain.

Steroid treatment is not advised for a long-term solution, however; it will suppress your cat's immune system and lower kitty's resistance to diseases. They can also cause weight gain that can lead to diabetes, or even weaken your cat's heart muscle.

Some vets use antihistamines like chlorpheniramine, clemastine, or amitripryline in combination with fatty acids to treat eosinophilic granuloma. Their bitter taste may cause your cat to salivate a lot after you've given the pill, but this is nothing to be concerned about.

Some indolent ulcers may be frozen (cryosurgery) or removed with laser surgery while your cat is under anesthesia. If the transition to a cancerous form is suspected, they may be treated with radiation or chemotherapy using interferon, chlorambucil or cyclosporine (Atopica). Gold therapy (yes, using real gold) has even been used in rare cases to treat the inflammation! These drugs are also immunosuppressants, however, so should be used carefully and not for long periods of time. They are typically considered treatments of last resort, after all else has failed.

If a secondary infection has occurred, your kitty may also need treatment with antibiotics until the infection clears. Clavamox, Antirobe, or doxicycline given with food is often used for this. It will not clear the lesions, but will address the infection. Especially puzzling cases of EGC may require consultation with a board-certified veterinary dermatologist.

In the longer term, vets will treat these types of allergies with injections of tiny quantities of the allergens themselves, known as hyposensitization. These are just like the allergy shots people receive to desensitize us to allergens. If the allergen at fault is not one that can be removed from your cat's environment, this type of treatment may be the only long-term solution.

Probably the most important treatment is to identify the source of the allergy and remove that allergen from your cat's environment. Attacking the source of the problem should eliminate the need for giving your cats any medication and prevent recurrence.

What can I do to prevent eosinophilic granuloma in my cat?

Once you know the allergens responsible for causing these lesions in your cat, it's as simple as keeping them out of your cat's environment. 

Make sure to always feed your cat high-quality, meat-based foods. Cats are obligate carnivores, which means they must eat meat in order to survive. Meat is expensive, so lower-quality cat foods have a lot of grain fillers that can often cause allergic reactions in cats. Dry food (kibble) diets can carry food storage mites, so stick to a wet-food (canned, pouch, or raw) diet. Once you find a healthy food that your cat enjoys and that doesn't cause the lesions, stick with it. Cats don't need variety; they prefer consistency. If your cat is overly sensitive to any of the foods you try, there are some hypoallergenic foods available through your veterinarian. In some cats, a raw diet that removes all commercially prepared foods can do the trick.

Pay attention to the pollen reports for your area. If it's pollen season and your cat is allergic to a particular type, keep kitty indoors with the windows closed during that time. Sure, you'll get plenty of complaining, but that's preferable to an itchy attack of granulomas!

Use a cat-safe flea treatment in your home and yard, as well as on your cat(s). Treat all cats in the household, not just the one with the allergy. Also keep your cats indoors when biting insects like mosquitoes or flies are prevalent. If you have a screened area or "catio" those are great ways to let your cat go outdoors without fear of insect bites. Make sure you treat that area frequently for fleas, as rain can wash away previous flea treatments. Remember, mosquitoes can also spread heartworms, so it's best to keep your cat safe from them even without the allergy component.

Make sure the cleaning products you use in your home are safe for use around cats. But that's no guarantee, either. While "natural" may sound healthier, some cats can still have a sensitivity to a natural ingredient. If your cat is allergic to a substance in that cleaner, it's not one you want to use.

Our kitties are delicate creatures. We hate to see them suffer. And because these lesions are usually so itchy and awful looking, eosinophilic granuloma can be especially distressing! But with a little investigative work, trial and error, you can usually uncover the cause and solve the problem.

Sources: Skin Diseases from Allergies in Cats, PetMD.com; Eosinophilic Granuloma Complex, Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine; Eosinophilic Disease in Cats, PetEducation.com; Feline Eosinophilic Granuloma Complex in Cats, VCA Animal Hospitals; Eosinophilic granuloma complex, International Cat Care; When Steroids Quit Working for Eosinophilic Granuloma, Veterinary News DVM360; Eosinophilic granuloma, Wikipedia; Eosinophilic Granuloma Complex, Veterinary Partner; Eosinophilic Granuloma Complex in Cats, Merck Veterinary Manual; What Is That Painful-Looking Red Wound on my Cat's Lip Or Body; 2nd Chance.

Rodent Ulcer in Cats

Feline Health Spotlight: Rodent Ulcer in Cats

Toward the end of her life, my little Vixen developed a lesion on her lower jaw. It didn't seem to bother her, but looked awful! The place would occasionally fill up with blood, then burst and scab over. But it never went away.

I never did figure out what that lesion was, despite a trip to the vet. But a recent post about a similar condition on Facebook prompted me to do more research and see if that was what she had. I'm convinced that it was. So here's the scoop on it!

What is Rodent Ulcer?

Also called feline indolent ulcer, this condition is found only in cats. A type of skin cancer in humans is also called this, but the conditions are not at all related.

The ulcers are not contagious between cats, either. If multiple cats within the same environment develop them, they are likely responding to the same environmental triggers.

Rodent ulcers affect the lips, chin, or mouth. Any age cat may suffer from them, although younger and middle-aged cats seem more prone to them than do older ones. They may be seasonal in some cats, only occurring in the spring or fall. In others, they may happen at any time of the year.

Rodent ulcers are part of a larger disease group known as feline eosinophilic granuloma complex. This group also includes other types of lesions that affect a cat's abdomen, thighs, face, tongue, or palate. All are inflammatory lesions that may have the same underlying cause, and all respond to the same types of treatment.

Female kitties are three times as likely to get these ulcers as are males. My little Vixen had one on her lower lip (shown above) that lasted for the last couple of years of her life. It's been written that cats younger than seven years are more prone to them, but Vixen was over 20 years old when hers showed up.

There's no real reason for the word "rodent" to be in the name, as this has nothing to do with rodents. One theory on why it's called this is that people used to believe that cats caught these from rats, or that they were caused by a rat biting the cat, although this is not actually the case. Another theory is that the ulcer's tendency to "nibble" away at the tissues along its edges is similar to how a rat nibbles at something.

What are the Symptoms of Feline Rodent Ulcer?

The first thing you may see is a shiny spot that looks yellow or pinkish. It may also appear as a blister. Vixen's actually looked more black. Over time, the spot will deepen and transform into an open sore. The sore may appear in several locations in or around the mouth:

• near the center of the cat's upper lip 
• on the lower lip
• at the back of the jaw behind the cat's last upper molar
• on the tongue

The ulcer does not seem to bother the cat at this stage, neither itching nor causing pain.

The ulcer on Vixen's chin would periodically fill up with blood, then burst and scab over. But instead of going away, it would recur once the scab came off.

As a rodent ulcer grows, the cat's lip may begin to erode. The swelling may even expose kitty's teeth, gums, or nasal cartilage. When this happens, it may cause the cat to avoid eating due to discomfort, pain, or difficulty eating normally. Some ulcers may emit a foul odor.

Cats who are more feral may exhibit behavioral symptoms as a reaction to the discomfort of a rodent ulcer. These can include avoidance of interaction with you, hiding more than usual, or aggression.

Once cleared up, the ulcers often recur. If they had advanced to the point of eating away at adjacent tissues, the disfigurement of your cat's face will likely be permanent. If they first occur in a younger cat, the cat may outgrow the condition.

What Causes Feline Rodent Ulcer?

Your cat has different types of white blood cells. Eosinophils are the ones that fight allergens and parasites. When tissues of the body become irritated, they get inflamed. In response to that inflammation, the body floods that area with cells to respond to the attack. When they reach the affected area, the eosinophils and granulocytes, another type of white blood cell that fights parasites and germs, release their granules to fight the invader. These can pool and form a granuloma, which is the growth we see.

That said, the root cause of rodent ulcer is unknown. Because it's not a life-threatening disease or one that inflicts much suffering on a cat, this is not something that draws a lot of research dollars. Most vets view it as an extreme allergic reaction to something.

Theories on its causes include:

• allergic reaction
• parasites
• immune system imbalance
• hypersensitivity to substances in the cat's diet or environment

Cats may be allergic or sensitive to substances such as fleas, dietary additives, pollen, dust, fungus, roach droppings, or any number of other things. Dental infection may also contribute to rodent ulcer. Certain cats may even be genetically predisposed to developing it, although studies have not been conducted on this.

Some believe that inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) may contribute to the development of rodent ulcers. Since the immune system is maintained in the body's digestive tract, this would make sense. Both are immune-system responses to opposite ends of the digestive tract.

There is no known link between rodent ulcers and the feline leukemia virus (FeLV), although some cats who have been exposed to it have developed them. Their presence on cats exposed to the virus is one of the reasons a link to an impaired immune system is suspected.

How is Feline Rodent Ulcer Treated?

This is one that requires a trip to the vet. When little Vixen's first appeared, it looked black and I suspected it may be a tumor. My vet took a sample of cells from it to check for cancer, but that came back negative. Your vet may refer you to a feline dermatologist so that your cat can be skin-tested for allergies.

Because there are so many possible causes for these ulcers, there are also multiple possible treatments. Your vet will help you determine which of the possible causes is affecting your kitty so that you can pursue the best course of treatment and avoid recurrence.

The most effective treatment of rodent ulcer is usually a steroid like cortisone given in combination with an initial antibiotic (clindamycin or Clavamox®) to prevent a secondary bacterial infection. The cortisone may be given in pill form (prednisone) or injection (Depo-medrol) given in three doses spread two weeks apart. Prednisone pills can be given daily until the ulcer disappears, but depending on the cat's mouth condition from the ulcer, giving pills may not be an option.

For persistent cases that do not respond to steroid + antibiotic treatment, some vets advise radiation therapy or cryosurgery in combination with cyclosporine or interferon. This is only indicated when the ulcer is causing your cat major problems. Injections of gold salts have also been used for difficult cases.

Natural treatments that will support the steroid-antibiotic therapy include essential fatty acids (EFAs) such as fish oil, although these will not make the ulcers disappear on their own.

How Can I Prevent Feline Rodent Ulcer?

Some have found that removing plastic or rubber food and water bowls takes care of the problem. The best material for cat dishes is stainless steel, as it does not get the little bacteria-harboring scratches in it that softer materials do.

Some rodent ulcers appear to be caused by flea allergies, so keep your kitty and your home free of fleas to address this cause. Frequent cleaning also removes other environmental allergy triggers, but be sure to use cat-safe cleaning products.

Since food allergy may be another trigger for rodent ulcer, select a high-quality or raw diet for your cat. Additives used in grocery store brands of cat food can cause cats a host of problems, allergic reactions being only one of them. Feeding a high-quality or raw diet is always a good idea.

Hopefully your kitty won't fall victim to any rodent ulcers, but if you see one, at least now you'll know what to do about it!

Sources: "Rodent Ulcers in Cats", WebMD; "Cat Rodent Ulcer: Diagnosis and Treatment", Ask the Cat Doctor; "Eosinophilic Granulomas (Rodent Ulcers) in Cats", DrBarchas.com; "Case Study: Eosinophilic ulcer (rodent ulcer) in a cat", Banfield Pet Hospital; "Are rodent ulcers in cats contagious?" The Nest; "Eosinophilic Granuloma in Cats", Cat World; "What is a rodent ulcer?" NetDoctor.

Product Review: Jackson Galaxy Cat Crawl from Petmate

Review: Cat Crawl from Jackson Galaxy's new Petmate line

The video I shot was a little dark; fault me for not turning on lights in a room when I could see just fine, but my camera couldn't! But you can still (sort of) see from the photo above that The Golden Boys were quite fascinated by the new Cat Crawl in Jackson Galaxy's line of cat toys from Petmate. If you'd like to see the video of them playing in the Cat Crawl, you can watch it here.

Jackson is known for his Animal Planet show, "My Cat From Hell" and also for his advocacy for cats. His "Cat Mojo" philosophy is built around six basic needs of cats:

• Hunt
• Catch
• Kill
• Eat
• Groom
• Sleep

Each of the items in Petmate's new Jackson Galaxy line meet one or more of these needs. In the case of the Cat Crawl, it gives kitties a place to explore, while the mesh fabric still gives them full view of their surroundings so that no predators can sneak up on them. Of course, in the case of my Golden Boys, the only "predator" around for one of them is his brother!

When I first unfurled the Cat Crawl, which comes collapsed and held in place with ties on one end, the boys were excited to see what new toy Mama had brought into their territory now! They eagerly followed me into the dining room, then immediately began sniffing it. Gilly walked right on in to explore the inside, while the Captain seemed most interested in playing with the string ties on the end of it.

The Cat Crawl also has a zipper on one end, which tells me that you'll be able to buy additional pieces that will fit together with it to give your kitties a full maze to explore. My one concern about the mesh fabric is that some cats may get their claws caught in it. But if you keep your kitties' claws trimmed, that may not be an issue.

Since their initial fascination, I haven't observed the boys playing with this again, but I do go in the dining room from time to time and find it in a different place than it had been before...so I guess they just like their Cat Crawl time to be private!

Naturally, being cats, they were also quite interested in the box in which the Jackson Galaxy products arrived:

So, what do you think: would you like to see this product available in the Old Maid Cat Lady store?

An update: The boys have had this toy for a few weeks now, and they still seem to enjoy it. Occasionally I'll see them go through it to get to each other when they're playing (It was really entertaining when Gilly was playing with the ties on one end, and the Captain snuck up on him through the tunnel to grab him!), but what they do most with it is bat it around. They'll chew on the end of it a bit, and seem to enjoy that they can move it around so easily. I'll find it in all sorts of different places. Still waiting to find it in another room...

Spotlight: Plasma Cell Pododermatitis (Pillow Foot)

This is what healthy pads should look like on a cat's paw.
If your cat's pads are swollen, it could be "pillow foot."

Feline Health Spotlight: Pillow Foot (Plasma Cell Pododermatitis) in Cats

While checking my Facebook stream this morning, I found a reference to "pillow foot" in a cat, and had never heard of it before. Couldn't resist researching it on this rare morning that I don't have to be anywhere! Things have been so busy lately I haven't had much time to blog here, so it seemed logical to share what I found.

What is Pillow Foot?

Also known as "pillow paw" or "bad paw," this condition affects a cat's foot pads. It causes them to swell and soften, sometimes causing the cat pain when walking. Pillow Foot can affect cats of any age, breed, or gender. It's fairly rare, so not much research has been done on it. This leaves plenty of mysteries about the condition.

Some cats who get pillow foot may not be bothered much by it, and it may heal on its own. Some cats who suffer from this condition may also have other serious conditions related to plasma cell production. These include stomatitis, which causes painful swelling of the gums, and/or renal amyloidosis (kidneys). In one case I found online, the cat's nose was also swollen and painful.

While pillow foot itself is not a contagious or life-threatening condition in most cases (one article said that 1%-2% of cats have died from it), it may be linked to others that are. It may be a condition that occurs as a symptom of serious diseases like FIV and FeLV. And open sores or cracks in the cat's paws leave those areas open to bacteria and secondary infections that could become problematic.

What Are the Symptoms of Pillow Foot?

Your cat's paw pads may simply become a little swollen at first, and perhaps tender to the touch. You may think kitty has stepped on something that irritated them, or perhaps been bitten by a bug on the pad. But as the condition worsens, the pads may become greatly enlarged and start looking dark red or purple and bruised. (The bruising may be harder to see on a cat with black pads.) They will even feel spongy or mushy, somewhat like a marshmallow. The pads may have scaly cracks on them as well, almost appearing "crusty" - this symptom is actually easier to see on cats with black pads.

The cat may be favoring the affected feet or limping, as this can become quite painful...but not always, especially in early stages of the condition. Kitty may lick the affected paws to seek relief. Typically more than one foot is affected. This is one of the telltale signs that would differentiate pillow foot from other causes of paw irritation.

Sometimes there may be a sore or ulcer on the swollen pad. These may burst and bleed. Because the skin is so stretched with the swelling, it can become thin and may split open and bleed, even without ulcers. This exposes the tissue underneath to bacteria that can lead to secondary infection. You may see some bloody paw prints that indicate this is happening.

The cat may appear listless and show little interest in eating as the pain increases. This will lead to anemia as the condition becomes progressively worse, since the cat is not getting proper nutrition.

What Causes Pillow Foot?

The medical name for this condition contains a clue: plasma cell pododermatitis (sometimes abbreviated to "plasma cell pod"). It's caused when blood plasma cells pool in a cat's paw pads and this abundance of antibodies floods the pad, causing the swelling. This is an immune reaction, and the condition is often associated with cats who are FIV-positive (feline AIDS). Some cases have had a connection to cats who are infected with FeLV (feline leukemia). Some studies have shown a link between those diseases and this condition, but not enough research has been done to definitively make the connection.

In a healthy cat, the body produces lymphocytes (white blood cells) that activate and develop into mature plasma cells in the presence of invading pathogens that cause disease. These plasma cells are the antibodies that kill off the invaders and enable the cat to recover from the disease. But when the immune system is compromised, too many of these cells can be produced. Sometimes they attack a cat's healthy cells. In this pillow foot condition, they all head to a party in the cat's paw pads.

Other vets' experience shows a link to the feline calicivirus, a cause of respiratory infections in cats. They postulate that while the cat's immune system is fighting off that virus, kitty becomes susceptible to whatever causes pillow foot. There may also be a relationship with FIP (feline infectious peritonitis). Here's a previous post about FIP. It's another viral-triggered condition in cats, albeit much more serious than pillow foot.

One veterinarian noted that hamsters can get a similar condition when their bedding consists of low-quality sawdust or wood shavings, and speculated that the type of cat litter used can contribute to pillow foot in cats. With the viral connection, it could be that a cat fighting off a virus may develop pillow foot from stepping and digging in a similar type of cat litter. With more litters made from paper, wood fiber, and corn on the market these days, there are more cats being exposed to these materials than when most litters were made of clay. Again, without more study, this connection cannot be confirmed.

Since it hasn't been extensively studied, veterinarians mainly identify this disease by its appearance. There may be a viral cause for pillow foot, but evidence for it is primarily anecdotal. Without more research, this cannot be stated for certain.

How is Pillow Foot Treated?

Some cats recover from this condition without any treatment. If you notice the early symptoms, monitor the situation closely and perhaps try some natural remedies as described below to see if they help.

More severe cases will require a visit to your cat's vet. It is a rare condition, so some newer vets may not have experience with it. Couldn't hurt for you to print out this blog post, or at least jot down the name of the condition, so you can suggest your suspicion that this is what is bothering your cat. A more experienced vet may be able to diagnose pillow foot by merely examining the cat's feet, but may also take a biopsy to verify the presence of a high number of plasma cells. If your cat has not already been diagnosed with FeLV or as FIV+, the vet may also run a complete blood panel to check for these.

Usually at this time, veterinarians will prescribe an oral antibiotic such as doxycycline (doxy) or cyclosporine for several months to treat pillow foot. These are the preferred antibiotics due to their additional ability to temper the cat's immune system, toning down the production of antibodies and fighting inflammation. It may take up to two months for the cat to feel relief, but treatment needs to continue beyond this time, perhaps even for several more months, while the condition is in remission.

Not a fan of prescription medicines? Giving some natural anti-viral and anti-inflammatory supplements may also help your cat. Supplements to support kitty's immune system may also be useful in normalizing the production of antibodies. If you catch the condition early enough, it may stave off that visit to the vet. Even if you do choose the traditional medicine route, these may attack the condition from another angle and speed recovery. One study recommended switching your cat to a raw diet.

Healing may be promoted by soaking the affected paws each day in an antibiotic solution or healing treatment like Epsom salts or Vet Aid's Sea Salt Wound Care Spray or Foam. It may prevent the pads from cracking by helping moisturize them, as well. If you can get your cat to sit still for such treatment, however, you're a stronger woman than I! Try swaddling kitty into a "purrito" (also useful for trimming back claws of reluctant felines), petting and talking or singing softly to kitty on your lap while soaking them. Doing this may allow you to place some cotton balls soaked in the solution on the pads, even if only briefly. It should be noted that topical treatments will not "cure" this condition, but only support the cat's natural healing.

For cats who don't respond to doxycycline treatment, the vet may prescribe and oral steroid such as prednisone or a glucocorticoid. If the cat is one who cannot be given daily pills or liquid medicine, injections of a long-acting steroid such as methylprednisolone acetate may provide some relief. Pentoxifylline is a newer treatment for the condition.

If the footpads have developed large ulcers taking on the appearance of a mass, these must sometimes be removed surgically. If the condition becomes too serious before treatment, kitty may even lose some of his pads entirely.

As related above, some cats with pillow foot also exhibit symptoms of gum disease. Your vet may need to do dental surgery to remove any teeth affected by periodontal disease. This can help by removing another stimulus to the immune system, so that it is not over-producing the plasma cells accumulating in the cat's pads.

Is There Any Way to Prevent Pillow Foot?

If your cat contracts a virus or is confirmed to be FeLV+ or FIV+, make sure to keep the litter box extra clean. Check kitty's foot pads frequently for any early signs of pillow foot. Giving an immune-supporting supplement can't hurt.

If your cat has been affected by pillow foot before, keep him from walking on lawns recently treated with chemicals, and be careful what types of cleaning products you use around the house. Make sure they're safe for use around cats, who tend to walk everywhere.

Considering how many articles referred to this condition as "rare" it was rather surprising how many articles and blog posts exist on it! In some of those, the authors even described multiple cats afflicted with pillow foot. Perhaps it's less rare than previously believed. Because it's not a life-threatening condition, however, chances are slim that additional research funding will be directed toward it, especially since there are many more serious (and more common) feline disease studies on which those dollars are being spent. Hopefully this article can help you recognize pillow foot if it is affecting your cat and seek an appropriate treatment.

Sources: Plasma Cell Pododermatitis (Pillow Foot), VeterinaryPartner.com; Pillow Paw Disease in Cats, The Nest/Pets; Plasma Cell Pododermatitis (Pillow Foot), Animal Advocacy; Five Diseases Your Pet's Paws Reveal and Steps to Healing, Vitality Magazine; Cats Paddy's Pads (plasma cell pododermatitis), HandicappedPets.com; Plasma Cell Pododermatitis (Pillow Foot), Bengal Chatter; Kelli Rogers, Feline Pododermatitis, eHow; Sarah Metzker Erdemir, Cat Paw Diseases, eHow; Anybody else got a cat with pillow foot?, Sheffield Forum; My cat's paw pads have been swollen and dark red/purplish, JustAnswer.com; Can you explain pillow paw to me?, JustAnswer.com; Is Feline Plasma Cell Pododermatitis (Pillow Foot) contagious to other cats?, Yahoo! Answers; Swollen Paw in Cats, Cat World; Plasma cell pododermatitis resolution after dental and dietary therapy in two cats, RawMeatyBones.com.
Additional Photos: Pillow Paws, Canobolas Family Pet Hospital; Plasma Cell Pododermatitis (sometimes called "PILLOW FOOT"), Mar Vista Vet; Plasma Cell Pododermatitis (Pillow Foot), Rural Animal Welfare Resource (RAWR).

July 15 is Pet Fire Safety Day!

Fire Safety for Cats

It's every cat owner's nightmare: you arrive home to find your home burned to the ground or seriously damaged by fire. What has become of your precious feline companions? July 15 is Pet Fire Safety Day, so it's a good time to review how to keep your cats safe.

Hopefully someone would save your cats if the unthinkable were to happen, but how would they know to do so? A smoke alarm will alert you to a fire if you're home, but not when you're gone. By taking a few precautions ahead of time, you can help avoid cat-astrophe (see what I did there?) and keep your kitties safe.

Preventing Fires

This may seem like common sense, but we likely all have a few fire risks around our homes. Periodically checking for them can keep not only your cats safe, but all your other possessions, as well. The National Fire Protection Association says that over 1,000 house fires each year are started by pets!

Can your stove be easily turned on by your cats walking on the countertop? Be realistic: even though you've supposedly trained your cats to stay off the kitchen counters, you know they're exploring up there when you're gone. According to the American Red Cross, "a stove or cook top is the number one piece of equipment involved in your pet starting a fire." If they can turn on the burners of your stove, make sure nothing flammable is sitting on or near those burners. And even if it's not, a cat can easily knock a flammable toy onto a hot burner. If you can remove the knobs so the cats can't turn them, do so. Stash them in a drawer so the cats won't use them for batting practice. Can't remove them? Find some type of protective cover to place over them so a cat can't accidentally turn on the burners while walking there. Or get an induction cooktop, where the burners stay cool.

It stands to reason that it's never a good idea to have open flames around your cats. If you use a fireplace, a glass door in front of the open fire will keep a curious kitty from getting too close and knocking out embers. Playful cats can easily knock candles over, starting a fire before you even realize what's happening. Kitty may not even knock it over intentionally; tails can be unpredictable. If you love candles, Old Maid Cat Lady used to sell several types of flameless candles you can use instead.

Other sources of fire danger are space heaters and halogen lamps. Both of these burn hot and can easily start a fire if tipped over. If you use either of them, never leave them with your cats unattended. It only takes a moment for disaster to occur. Consider using something like a sealed oil heater instead of an open space heater; this looks like a radiator and has no exposed heat coils.

Watch for electrical cords that may have been chewed by cats. Teething kittens are especially prone to chewing anything rubbery, such as an electrical cord. Keep electrical cords out of your a kitten's reach or put a protective sleeve you can find at the hardware store over any exposed cords. If you have a litter of kittens, keep them in a large crate when you're not monitoring their activities. Keep cords from dangling enticingly like a cat toy, and never use an old cord as a substitute cat toy. Check all your electrical cords periodically to make sure there are no exposed wires that could start a fire. Remove and replace any damaged cords. Unplug cords when not in use. Using surge suppressors throughout your house, not just for computer equipment, can also prevent a power surge from starting a fire in your home when you're away.

A danger many people don't consider is a glass bowl of water left on a sunny wooden deck. The glass bowl can act like a magnifying glass to focus the sun's rays on the deck and actually start a fire! If you leave a dish of water outside for outdoor or neighborhood cats, make it a ceramic or stainless steel one. And putting that bowl in the shade will keep the water in it cooler and more enjoyable for the cats, anyway.

Plan Ahead

Making a fire evacuation plan is important not only for your family, but also for your cats. If you have a written plan that includes a map of your house, include your cat's typical hiding places on that map so you know exactly where to look. More than one cat? Assign certain cats to the family members they're closest so that everyone is covered and the cat is most likely to be found by the person who can best reassure them. Include the cats in your evacuation rehearsals so they understand what's going to happen. Cats are highly intelligent creatures and can learn behaviors if you take the time to teach them. Explain to them in your mind what to do and envision them doing it; their ability to learn may surprise you!

Can you train your cat to go to an always-available carrier when afraid? If so, that could be a good way to make sure you can find kitty in the event that you have to evacuate the house quickly. Place the carrier somewhere protected and not in your way, but where you could easily grab it as you head toward a safety exit. The last thing you need in an emergency situation is a cat you can't find, who's hidden in an inaccessible place in your home where you can't find him! Having the cat inside a closed carrier will also be good once you've evacuated, so kitty doesn't flee in fear but remains with you so you can comfort him.

Placing your cat's crate or carrier near an exit is also a good idea in the event that firefighters have to enter your home when you're away. If your cat is in a crate or carrier near the door, they'll be more easily found.

Make up an emergency kit that contains some of your cats' food, vet receipts showing vaccinations, prescription meds, and even photos of your cats that will come in handy if they go missing after a disaster. This will be helpful not only for fire safety, but also in the event of a quick storm evacuation. Keep this kit where you can quickly grab it and make that someone's responsibility during a fire evacuation.

During a fire, you'll be running on adrenaline and in a highly excited state, and your cat will pick up on that. I can tell you to try and remain calm, but it's not always easy to remember such things in an emergency. Your emotional state and fear will likely be frightening to kitty, and may cause unexpected behavior that could be hostile. If you have to evacuate the house without your cat, leave the door leading outside open. That way, if the cat gets a rush of courage, she can run to safety with you. Call kitty's name once outside and hope that he's not frozen in fear and will come to the familiar sound.

Microchipping your cat is a good way to make sure that a frightened kitty who may run far from home when frightened can find its way back to you. A harness or collar with an ID tag including your contact information is good backup, just in case whoever finds your traumatized kitty doesn't think to take them to a vet or shelter that has a scanner for your chip.

Alarm Yourself

Make sure there are smoke detectors on each floor of your home. Smoke kills more people than fire. If you have a large one-story home, place them strategically throughout it, as well. Check or replace the batteries in them twice a year: put it on your calendar so you don't forget.

Smoke alarms are great...if you're home. But what if you're gone when fire breaks out? Luckily, many home automation systems are now available to alert you if a fire should start in your home when you're away. Alarm systems can notify your monitoring service. Some also send you a message on your cell phone. Keeping these detectors and services current and functioning could save your cats' lives.

Tell Firefighters About Your Cats

Making sure firefighters know you have cats in the house is another important step to saving your cats' lives. While a sticker in a front-facing window is one way, a sign in the yard, similar to the alarm company signs you see, is even better. Then if that window gets broken, they'll still be able to see the sign. Make sure the sign tells them how many cats you have in the house, and if possible identify where they may be hiding if frightened.

While nobody can prevent a lightning strike from causing a fire in the home, many other causes are preventable. Taking the above-listed precautions and making sure you have a plan in place will help you rest easier knowing that your cats are safer, even when you're away from home

Purrs!